sorry its a 89 v6 efi

again today it runs tits untill i get to normal op temp.. than its fallin on its face spittin and sputterin.. i'm gonna try to record it cause it is so noticable. ...

bahhhhhhhhhh thanks for the rpelys

i haven't gotten any in a while and i realllty need to fix this

ryan

checked the MAF clean as a whistle also cleaned my TB and blew out all the ports.

<img border="0" title="" alt="[Mad]" src="images/icons/mad.gif" />

Maybe im just dumb, but DirtyHarry brought up a good moint. Maybe someone that knows more about these particular things can elaborate upon what he said </font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Tahoma, Arial, Helv, Helvetica, Sans">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Tahoma, Arial, Helv, Helvetica, Sans"> I think that the most telling sign is that it does not happen when the the motor is cold and in open loop mode. That tells me that the problem is a sensor and not a mechanical item like the cat or valve seals. If it were the cat, you would have the problem all of the time, not just after it warms up. </font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Tahoma, Arial, Helv, Helvetica, Sans">

pleaseeeeeeeeeeeeeeee. maybe plugs and wires are my next step but i just replaced the plugs bout 10 k ago and teh wires like 15k.

in the morning runs tits.. than starts spiitin and sputterin.. also say i've driven it and i liet it sit and cooool all the way down.. it cranks and cranks when started but won't start unless i give it a littel gas. and runs like crap cold.. only when it sits all nite long does it run good for 2 miles..

dammit i'm goin to glamis and this truck is supposed to tow my toy. ... not gonna happen with this problem <img border="0" title="" alt="[Frown]" src="images/icons/frown.gif" /> <img border="0" title="" alt="[Confused]" src="images/icons/confused.gif" />

ok so pops took my truck to the stealer today.. guess what they tell him...

you have a dead hole.

what the hell is that? what kind of diagnosis is that.

so they wanted to do a complete compression check.. i'm assuming they mean a compression check from the cylinders and a vavle leak down test. they said three tests.. i don't know why they didn't do it while it was there. but thats what they said i'm goin to go home soon and talk to my pops and than give toyota a call..

what do you guys think? consistant with the syptoms i've been explaining?

ryan

"a dead hole" usually means that one cylinder is not making power. Could be several reasons for this.
Ignition, fuel, compression.

You say it runs well when cold. If compression was bad I wouldn't expect this, but, since you haven't done a compression test yet it might not be a bad idea on an engine with high miles. You can buy a compression tester for less than a dealer will charge for one hour of labor if you want to do it yourself.

You also say it stumbles at low rpm, then "just revs up". I'm not sure exactly what you mean by this. When it "revs up" does it have normal power?

BTW, did the truck ever run right while you've owned it? If so, how did the problem begin? Was it
gradual or sudden?

Couple of things I would consider. When you changed the cap and rotor did you use genuine Toyota parts? If not you might want to, I've had bad luck with non-oem ignition parts.

Since you have to remove the sparkplugs to do a compression test anyway, I suggest you replace them with normal ngk (or ND) v-groove plugs. I've heard that platinums don't work too well in a 22re, don't know why not, and can't confirm with first hand experience, but a new set of plugs is pretty cheap.

Now how about those plug wires. Do they test OK? Any worn spots in the insulation? Maybe somebody pulled a wire out of the boot by pulling on the wire to remove it instead of pulling on the boot.
If they are suspect, you might want to replace those as well.

It could also be an injector is not firing properly...

BTW, keep everything you replace and carry as spare emergency parts.

Like I said, a compression test is a good idea.
One more thing to try before you spend any more money. Try driving it with the TPS sensor disconnected. Just pull the electical connector out. This will prevent the computer from going into closed loop mode. If it runs fine that way check all the sensors - especially coolant temperature, and AFM.

I assume you own a service manual. Does the trouble shooting section have anything useful?

bummer! i don't have a 6 ,but have read that it is common for #4 ex valve(i think) to burn. this may be the case. in my past exp a dead cyl would run poorly all the time. the only thing i can think of might be that the valve tolerances are to tight and when it heats up valves are not closing fully.
Good Luck!

</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Tahoma, Arial, Helv, Helvetica, Sans">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Tahoma, Arial, Helv, Helvetica, Sans">Originally posted by dknight:
<strong>"a dead hole" usually means that one cylinder is not making power. Could be several reasons for this.
Ignition, fuel, compression.
</strong> </font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Tahoma, Arial, Helv, Helvetica, Sans">i haven't had the time to run a compression check.. on the V6 it is kind of a PITA to get to all the plugs.. i get off work late and i don't like to work in the dark..
<strong> </font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Tahoma, Arial, Helv, Helvetica, Sans">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Tahoma, Arial, Helv, Helvetica, Sans">
You say it runs well when cold. If compression was bad I wouldn't expect this, but, since you haven't done a compression test yet it might not be a bad idea on an engine with high miles. You can buy a compression tester for less than a dealer will charge for one hour of labor if you want to do it yourself.

You also say it stumbles at low rpm, then "just revs up". I'm not sure exactly what you mean by this. When it "revs up" does it have normal power?
</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Tahoma, Arial, Helv, Helvetica, Sans">when i say it just revs up. it doesn't rev with anywhere near the power it usually had. it revs like its on its flatline of power. like when a motor stops producing HP and just revs out. hope that explains it.
<strong> </font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Tahoma, Arial, Helv, Helvetica, Sans">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Tahoma, Arial, Helv, Helvetica, Sans">
BTW, did the truck ever run right while you've owned it? If so, how did the problem begin? Was it
gradual or sudden?
</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Tahoma, Arial, Helv, Helvetica, Sans">YES
<strong> </font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Tahoma, Arial, Helv, Helvetica, Sans">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Tahoma, Arial, Helv, Helvetica, Sans">
Couple of things I would consider. When you changed the cap and rotor did you use genuine Toyota parts? If not you might want to, I've had bad luck with non-oem ignition parts.

Since you have to remove the sparkplugs to do a compression test anyway, I suggest you replace them with normal ngk (or ND) v-groove plugs. I've heard that platinums don't work too well in a 22re, don't know why not, and can't confirm with first hand experience, but a new set of plugs is pretty cheap.
</strong>[QUOTE]
no i didn't use OEM cap and rotor. i just wanted to try and see if this would remedy the problem. i know those parts are cheap and i wish i woulda ordered them with the rest of the parts i ordered the other day. i did however order OEM plugs.i will perform the compression check when i change the plugs.
<strong>[QUOTE]

Now how about those plug wires. Do they test OK? Any worn spots in the insulation? Maybe somebody pulled a wire out of the boot by pulling on the wire to remove it instead of pulling on the boot.
If they are suspect, you might want to replace those as well.
</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Tahoma, Arial, Helv, Helvetica, Sans">i haven't checked the wires. there appears to be no worn spots. i was the last to pull on the wires and it ran just fine afterwards.
It could also be an injector is not firing properly...
<strong> </font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Tahoma, Arial, Helv, Helvetica, Sans">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Tahoma, Arial, Helv, Helvetica, Sans">
BTW, keep everything you replace and carry as spare emergency parts.

Like I said, a compression test is a good idea.
One more thing to try before you spend any more money. Try driving it with the TPS sensor disconnected. Just pull the electical connector out. This will prevent the computer from going into closed loop mode. If it runs fine that way check all the sensors - especially coolant temperature, and AFM.

I assume you own a service manual. Does the trouble shooting section have anything useful?</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Tahoma, Arial, Helv, Helvetica, Sans">i actually just replaced the AFM due to a greenhorn manuever i pulled, by unscrewing the plug on the AFM assembly. the last time i ran the truck with the TPS unplugged i remember a check engine light and a rough idle. i will try this though.

thank you again
ryan

nemic thats news to me i have not heard this before. makes sense what you were saying. i thought somethign simalar, so i replaced my intake penulum gasket 4 times.

i wish a hammer would fix this <img border="0" alt="[Hillbilly]" title="" src="graemlins/notooth.gif" />

i got a round to doing a compression check and got the following:

#1 170
#2 172
#3 170
#4 175
#5 172
#6 170

also put OE plugs in. i have OE cap and rotor and will put those in eventually. i was hopeing that the plugs would fix it.. coudln't it just be that easy but no luck

also in a closed loop is the timming advanced slightly? i don't want to play with the timming and mess it up anymore than it is.

maybe a bad injector? i just replaced all six in the past 3 months. shouldn't the dealer have given me a print out? they would have been able to tell if one injector was bad and which one right?

i don't know where else to look to remedy this

ryan