</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Tahoma, Arial, Helv, Helvetica, Sans">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Tahoma, Arial, Helv, Helvetica, Sans">Originally posted by dknight:
<strong>"a dead hole" usually means that one cylinder is not making power. Could be several reasons for this.
Ignition, fuel, compression.
</strong> </font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Tahoma, Arial, Helv, Helvetica, Sans">i haven't had the time to run a compression check.. on the V6 it is kind of a PITA to get to all the plugs.. i get off work late and i don't like to work in the dark..
<strong> </font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Tahoma, Arial, Helv, Helvetica, Sans">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Tahoma, Arial, Helv, Helvetica, Sans">
You say it runs well when cold. If compression was bad I wouldn't expect this, but, since you haven't done a compression test yet it might not be a bad idea on an engine with high miles. You can buy a compression tester for less than a dealer will charge for one hour of labor if you want to do it yourself.
You also say it stumbles at low rpm, then "just revs up". I'm not sure exactly what you mean by this. When it "revs up" does it have normal power?
</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Tahoma, Arial, Helv, Helvetica, Sans">when i say it just revs up. it doesn't rev with anywhere near the power it usually had. it revs like its on its flatline of power. like when a motor stops producing HP and just revs out. hope that explains it.
<strong> </font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Tahoma, Arial, Helv, Helvetica, Sans">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Tahoma, Arial, Helv, Helvetica, Sans">
BTW, did the truck ever run right while you've owned it? If so, how did the problem begin? Was it
gradual or sudden?
</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Tahoma, Arial, Helv, Helvetica, Sans">YES
<strong> </font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Tahoma, Arial, Helv, Helvetica, Sans">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Tahoma, Arial, Helv, Helvetica, Sans">
Couple of things I would consider. When you changed the cap and rotor did you use genuine Toyota parts? If not you might want to, I've had bad luck with non-oem ignition parts.
Since you have to remove the sparkplugs to do a compression test anyway, I suggest you replace them with normal ngk (or ND) v-groove plugs. I've heard that platinums don't work too well in a 22re, don't know why not, and can't confirm with first hand experience, but a new set of plugs is pretty cheap.
</strong>[QUOTE]
no i didn't use OEM cap and rotor. i just wanted to try and see if this would remedy the problem. i know those parts are cheap and i wish i woulda ordered them with the rest of the parts i ordered the other day. i did however order OEM plugs.i will perform the compression check when i change the plugs.
<strong>[QUOTE]
Now how about those plug wires. Do they test OK? Any worn spots in the insulation? Maybe somebody pulled a wire out of the boot by pulling on the wire to remove it instead of pulling on the boot.
If they are suspect, you might want to replace those as well.
</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Tahoma, Arial, Helv, Helvetica, Sans">i haven't checked the wires. there appears to be no worn spots. i was the last to pull on the wires and it ran just fine afterwards.
It could also be an injector is not firing properly...
<strong> </font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Tahoma, Arial, Helv, Helvetica, Sans">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Tahoma, Arial, Helv, Helvetica, Sans">
BTW, keep everything you replace and carry as spare emergency parts.
Like I said, a compression test is a good idea.
One more thing to try before you spend any more money. Try driving it with the TPS sensor disconnected. Just pull the electical connector out. This will prevent the computer from going into closed loop mode. If it runs fine that way check all the sensors - especially coolant temperature, and AFM.
I assume you own a service manual. Does the trouble shooting section have anything useful?</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Tahoma, Arial, Helv, Helvetica, Sans">i actually just replaced the AFM due to a greenhorn manuever i pulled, by unscrewing the plug on the AFM assembly. the last time i ran the truck with the TPS unplugged i remember a check engine light and a rough idle. i will try this though.
thank you again
ryan
