I was wondering if T6061 aluminum would be strong enough for the spacers. I have the aluminum and the means of making the spacers - I just want to know how tall the spacers can be and will the T6061 stand up to the abuse. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/shiner.gif" alt="" /> Is a 1 in lift all that can be done or can a 1.5 in be done? How does this affect the relationship between the upper and lower control arm? I understand that the amount of lift equals the thickness of the spacer but I do not get how it will give you more articulation or travel. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif" alt="" /> Maybe I just haven't been paying attention or reading thoroughly. Will it also affect the cv's? I know the angle will be more but I do have manual hubs so they won't be turning all the time. It does sound like a good idea though and definitly would be the cheapest for me. Thanks in advance.

P.S. What about the ride? Will it change?


And my description says stock and I mean stock - nothing done except for some really stiff low-end Rancho shocks that were on there when I bought the truck.

I can only answer a few questions. First of all, your CVs will be fine if you have manual hubs. When I had the WCOR A-arms I was running steeper angles with my stock outer CVs that anyone ever will with stock A-arms and they were fine. If you don't have manual hubs, the boots will wear out quicker.

One advantage of the spacer is that you can get some lift, without cranking the torsion bars. By not cranking the T-bars, you don't lose any down travel. I don't think you could actually gain any overall travel or stock, buy maybe you can. If you go with lower profile bumpstops you certainly can gain some travel. By not cranking the T-bars, you're suspension won't as stiff either and you should be able to flex better. If you decide to decrank the bars, you'll flex even better but at the cost of being more bouncy on the road.

I'm not sure if aluminum will work or not, but I imagine it will. That's what rear lift blocks are made out of, I think. Looking at the picture of the Japanese spacers, they look like aluminum.

You could probably go 1.5", but I'd be carefull. While it's OK to go taller with longer A-arms, you are probably limited with the stock length.

Elripster can probably elaborate much better than I can.

FWIW, my 1/4" Rockstomper style spacers are aluminum and they've been fine for 3-4 years. First on my 4runner, now on my wife's truck. I beleive they are 6061.

Thanks for the replies guys. Hopefully I can get some more replies with more info. I think I am going to try it with the aluminum and use good grade 8 hardware. Hope nothing explodes. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/shiner.gif" alt="" /> I think I will stick with just a 1 in spacer because that is what has been done and works. Well maybe 1.25 in. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif" alt="" /> I figure the spacer along with a 1 in body lift and a shackle lift in the back will net me enough lift for 33's without pounding body seams and stuff. Will a longer shackle give me more flex in the back or will it flex the same and just sit a little higher? Or can I just make a 1 in block for the back. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/ignore.gif" alt="" /> I know, I know blocks are bad news but a 1 in can't be that bad. What can I say, I am a cheap wheeler. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/cool.gif" alt="" /> There aren't that many rocks over here (well big ones at least) and I don't need lots of lift and huge tires. Plus I don't do that much offroading. Thanks for all the help.

Adding a spacer does give more travel because you move the upper and lower arms further away from their respective bumstomps. By adding the spacer, you are basically making the distance between the two arms greater.

As far as the material, I was wondering the same thing. I think a high grade aluminum would probably be okay, but steel might be better-- and cheaper probably.

I was also thinking about what would change with the path of suspension travel as the suspension moves up and down. I wonder if it would adversely affect the on road manners.... maybe by causing a change in camber because the a-arma are traveling in arcs that are different than stock. Just theorizing here. I would have to lay it out on a cad system to see what the differences are-- but I don't have all the measurements for a stock suspension right in front of me either.

Aluminum is fine, just recheck the bolts after a week or so. Aluminum will settle some where steel won't. Since the part is in compression it's not going to fail. Aluminum is WAY easier to machine than steel so if you are making them or having them made it will probably cost a lot less.

You do gain over all travel because the a-arms are now farther apart. That extra inch you spaced the spindle and lower arm down is an axtra inch of compression travel.

The geometry will remain the same as long as the ball joint is lined up with the hole to which it mounts. Actually, it would be harder to make it misalign that it will be to align it as you have to thread the spacer top and bottem, etc... Not that being able to space out both joints (upper and lower) wouldn't be something to try but it would require some healy machining. It would effectively give you longer a-arms.

As for the arcs, they are determined by the pivots on the bushings. Sure it will be a little different, and I mean a little because we are only talking a inch, but what matters is your tires are properly aligned at rest. The way it is now the camber and toe change as they swing through the travel. With the spacer your tires will lean ever so lightly more inward (the lower arm will swing out a bit more initially) when cornering which is good. Since the tie rod is located close to the plane of the upper ball joint, it will not be effected much if at all by the spacer. (again, it only matters when you flex because as it is your toe goes out when the suspension flexes so guess what, with the spacer it will still go out <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif" alt="" />)

Adding the low pro stops to this kit could yield what, 8, maybe 9 inches of travel? I'm not sure what you get stock with low pros but you can add an inch to it with this.

Frank.