To anybody who could help,

Emission test time came and I headed off to the nearest testing facility after re-calibration and an oil change.

At the center they did the opacity test and I barely made it but despite that the government watchdogs on duty insisted that they were instructed to adjust all engines to the best readings that a particularl engine could achieve. Needless to say, they fooled around with my injection pump's adjustment.

Readings were better but after they handed me my certificate, I drove off into slow traffic not realizing the effect the adjustments would have on the acceleration of the thing until i was more than 5 blocks away.

The engine lacked power at high acceleration! While the clean exhaust was nice, the car is now one giant green snail!! <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/angry.gif" alt="" />

Anybody know where the adjustment they tinkered is?

I know it's illegal to tamper now that I have the certificate but I need the acceleration for highway driving.

The C223 is slow already as it is. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/sleeping.gif" alt="" />


BTW,Thanks for the help Randy! It's good to be back on the thread...

Holy Cow, I can believe they monkied around witht he pump. WHAT A**holes.
Let me check my book tonight to see what adj are available.
TO clue youin on the possible fix.
Eric
VA

I have the manual and sent it along with my pump to have it calibrated.

Anyone who monkeyed with it probably is more liable for interfering with the proper operation of a device. These things have to be adjusted on a bench with specific readings. It cannot be adjusted "in the truck"

This is a multi-hundred dollar operation and you need to sue to recover your expenses. I do not belive any law requries someone to mal-adjust a complex device. And anytime you adjust a device without specs or proper procedure, you just MAL-ADJUSTED it by definition.

I agree with Robt.
I looked in my service manual last night and only saw two ajustments. One for the normal Idle speed and one for fast idel (associated with starting a cold engine).
I saw no other adjustments. If I recall there are others but they are WIRED SHUT for a dang good reason as RObt mentioned. Bench set up, controlled conditions etc. I'd claim against the folks who monkied around then get a real BIG bat and whomp they ass.
Eric

Eeek!... from what you guys are telling me this sounds baaad!!

Since the truck is not my daily driver, I hardly use it (needs new airconditioner) I guess it's off to get some re-calibration then ($$$$) <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/frown.gif" alt="" />

I'll get it to the shop on Saturday. I'll keep you guys posted.

Thanks

i think they adjusted the fuel delivery, there is no air/fuel adjustment on the diesel C223, locally available in the philippines. the fuel delivery can be adjusted again, it is at the back of the injection pump, it looks like a small screw. sorry guys you cannot sue here in the philippines, it may cost you more to sue, and you will make a lot of enemies which you dont want. lol

TFS55,

Kamusta? Thanks for the tip. Those idiot LTO people messed up my injector. Apparently the emmission center (the one at the back of LTO central on V. Luna Rd.) was to be inspected on the same day that I had my Trooper tested so everybody that day got hit.

Anyway, can I do this adjustment myself? how do I know how much to adjust? I've never had a diesel car before this.

Takeoff is ok at the onset but becomes worse on hard acceleration.

Buti pa weber, solex carter, kinki etc. na karburador ang daling ayusin!!

(Sorry for the lingo dudes but its a Flip thing that
tends to lose the effect when translated! <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif" alt="" />)

Thanks

ok lang, you can do it but trial and error basis. adjust then try if its back to normal or too much. or you can let your mekaniko do it for you.

I did the adjustment myself yesterday afternoon. I turned the control (after releasing the lock nut) CCW about half a turn thinking that it was the right (logical) direction but it made the idle worse and caused the engine to knock a little (tunog Sarao!)

Not really knowing what I was doing, I took the thing out of my garage on my worst drive ever. The car could hardly accelerate even at full throttle!

It died so many times, I was sweating like a pig. I adjusted it about 1 1/2 turns clock wise and it improved enough to get the car back into my driveway. I adjusted it some more but just enough to keep it from smoking on high rev.

I also had to bring down the idle. It got a little too high.

Anyway thanks for the help. It saved me the trip to AER not to mention the money.

TFS55, we should have a couple of beers some time. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/cheers.gif" alt="" />

The "adjustment" at the rear is the fine tune of the pump timing. This pump is like a fuel pump and distributor all in one. all other adjustments are set at the factory or on specialized bench equipment costing tens of thousand of dollars.

I had my pump rebuilt and recalibrated and it cost over $800.

Again, this is nothing you monkey around with. You can do the timing adjustment, but you need a special dial indicator that fits that rear orfice after screw is completely removed. Then you turn the entire pump like a distributor and take measurements with the crank timing marks. The routine is in the manual and does require experience and specialized test equipment.

To do all this, you have to pull the radiator, accessory belts and fan and get them out of the way. You then have to pull crank pulleys and the timing belt covers. This is a good time to change the timing belts.

BUT... What adjustments did they make? Take it back to them and let them show you what they changed. or better yet, put it back. It's obvious it doesn't run, so they did something improperly.