Can anyone tell me where the plugs are located on a 2001 2.7L Tacoma? I see what looks like the injecters and injecter rail and there pink with wires hooked to them on the right side as i face the engine, But where are the plugs located??? Don't mean to sound stupid but this is all new to me. Thanks, Mike

im not to sure with the 2.7lt becuase i havn't seen one up close
but it its like the 3.4 you will see 4 boxes on one side of the engine around where you will ussually find a spark plug

those boxes are the coil packs and underneith them are the spark plugs

X-CUTIONER, Thank you for the reply and the help. Do i have to unhook any of the computer or electical stuff before i replace the plugs? When i disconnect the wires running to the plugs is it going to mess up the computer or not?
I don't mean to sound stupid but all this electrical stuff is new to me . Im 57 and in my day it was much easier to work on these things,lol. The last truck i owned before this one was a 91 Chevey Suburbon 4x4 with a 350 engine , very easy to work on.Thanks again for your time and help. Mike

Dang, I have 80% of the material for an article on plug changes <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/frown.gif" alt="" />
I'm missing the 2.7l stuff. But, I can still help....

The plug boots will be right on top of the engine. You'll see the wires going to the four boots. It will make it easier to work if you remove the air intake tube (by loosening the three(?) clamps). Working on one plug at a time, remove a wire from the loom to provide enough slack to remove the long plug boot. Grasp the boot and pull up while twisting to 'break' the seal. The plugs are likely to be 4" below the valve cover. Blow out the cavity with compressed air before removing the spark plug. We want it clean so debris doesn't fall into the open cylinder. Remove the plug using a 5/8" hex spark plug socket--the one with a rubber insert in it. Before installing the new plug, coat the threads with anti-seize lubricant. Put the end of the plug into a length of 1/4" fuel line hose. Lower the plug in the cavity and use the hose to 'feel' the plug threading into place. Be sure to feel several revolutions of the hose threading the plug into place. Yank off the hose when the thread gets tight and the hose starts to slip. Use the spark plug socket and an inch pound torque wrench to torque the plug to 240 inch lbs. (20 ft. lbs.) Reinstall the boot and the wire you removed from the loom. One done! Repeat for the other three.
Notes:
The fuel line provides a 'feel' that the socket can't duplicate, and it will slip before any cross-threading happens.
Removing the air intake tube may not be necessary, depends on how much wire can be freed up.
My book shows Denso K16R-U or NGK BKR5EYA gapped at .031", but check your manual to be sure. I believe these are sold un-gapped, so gapping will be necessary.
No other computer or electrical prep is necessary.
I prefer to use an inch lb. torque wrench because I don't trust a ft. lb. wrench at 20 lbs.
This is a general description, I haven't be able to get the background on the 2.7l yet.

Mark

Mark, WOW! Thank you for the info. That's just the kind of stuff i was looking for but could never get an answer from anyone.Now it doesn't seem so scary to an old first timer like me. Mike

Mark, Got the plugs changed as per your instructions and it wasn't to bad to do. The trick with the rubber gas line really helped.
You do have to unclip the wireing harness at each plug because the wires are not long enough to allow that plug boot to come out.They just unsnap and slide out so it's easy to do.You also have to remove that air intake tube and canister useing a 12mm wrench to remove the two nuts holding to the bracket thats mounted to the engine.The nuts are under the canister and you have to feel your way.
The plugs in this truck have been changed before and they also used NGK plugs but the gap was .056. Yep, thats right and the funny thing is it ran fine!They were not burnt or caroded at all, I just wanted to change them because it has 56,000 on it and i felt it was a good time to do it.
It runs the same and no bells and whistles or lights went off so i must have done it right,lol. Thanks again. Mike

Thanks so much for the feedback/followup.

So your owner's manual specified a .031" gap?
And the old ones were incorrectly gapped, or worn to .056?

We I did our 4Runner at 30k miles, the wear was visually noticable, but I didn't measure it. And it ran better and has had (slightly) better gas mileage since the change.

Mark, Well it looks like i get to do it all over again! You got me to thinking about the gap on the plugs and i should have looked it up. Several people told me to set them at .031 so i did but i just checked my owners manual and it say's .043, Oh well live and learn <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/rolleyes.gif" alt="" />
The plugs i took out were wore some also so if they were set correctly and they had them set at .043 the .056 doesn't seem that far out of line. What do you think? Mike

I'm no plug expert. But if it was my truck, I'd have to change it. Sorry I put that 'bug in your ear' <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/frown.gif" alt="" />

Mark, It wasn't your fault. In fact you even ststed that i should check my manual for the proper gap on the plugs.
Well it will be intresting to see what happens... we know that under and over the proper gap it runs about the same. Now we will see if it runs better when gaped at the manuft. suggested gap,lol. Mike