Dang, I have 80% of the material for an article on plug changes <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/frown.gif" alt="" />
I'm missing the 2.7l stuff. But, I can still help....

The plug boots will be right on top of the engine. You'll see the wires going to the four boots. It will make it easier to work if you remove the air intake tube (by loosening the three(?) clamps). Working on one plug at a time, remove a wire from the loom to provide enough slack to remove the long plug boot. Grasp the boot and pull up while twisting to 'break' the seal. The plugs are likely to be 4" below the valve cover. Blow out the cavity with compressed air before removing the spark plug. We want it clean so debris doesn't fall into the open cylinder. Remove the plug using a 5/8" hex spark plug socket--the one with a rubber insert in it. Before installing the new plug, coat the threads with anti-seize lubricant. Put the end of the plug into a length of 1/4" fuel line hose. Lower the plug in the cavity and use the hose to 'feel' the plug threading into place. Be sure to feel several revolutions of the hose threading the plug into place. Yank off the hose when the thread gets tight and the hose starts to slip. Use the spark plug socket and an inch pound torque wrench to torque the plug to 240 inch lbs. (20 ft. lbs.) Reinstall the boot and the wire you removed from the loom. One done! Repeat for the other three.
Notes:
The fuel line provides a 'feel' that the socket can't duplicate, and it will slip before any cross-threading happens.
Removing the air intake tube may not be necessary, depends on how much wire can be freed up.
My book shows Denso K16R-U or NGK BKR5EYA gapped at .031", but check your manual to be sure. I believe these are sold un-gapped, so gapping will be necessary.
No other computer or electrical prep is necessary.
I prefer to use an inch lb. torque wrench because I don't trust a ft. lb. wrench at 20 lbs.
This is a general description, I haven't be able to get the background on the 2.7l yet.

Mark