I had the front brake pads replaced and the rotors cut about 2 years ago on my '96 V6 T100 and about a month after that service the brakes have squeeled when stopping. I took it back to the shop and they recommended I give up the lifetime pads they installed in favor of OEM pads. They said the pads they installed glazed the discs or something. I didn't have the superfluous cash at the time to make such a switch (as little as it probably is for OEM pads) and have lived with the squeel for these couple years. The last 8 months or so I get a grind if I apply the brakes too hard, so I been lightening up and trying to slow/stop more gradually to minimize any damage I might be causing but idiot drivers in my area like to stop short when there is 200' or something of stopping distance before a red light, so I don't have much choice on stopping slowly.

I don't have the resources to even have a mechanic look at it because I know it'll wind-up a $300+ job (I always get screwed by mechanics). My question is an economical one:

Where can I buy OEM brake pads (preferrably online) for the cheapest possible price (shipping low)? And how difficult is it to replace the front pads? I've only once replaced the front pads in my Isuzu pickup many, many years ago and found it pretty easy. Any special tricks I should know about with the T100? What does a warped rotor look like? (any pictures online?). The rotors were cut before, so I am concerned they might not be able to be cut again. Is it possible to bring the rotors to a service center and just pay for them to cut them again? If the rotors are not too bad, can I get away with just replacing the pads to at least buy me more time to get a complete overhaul of the brakes in say, a year?


My goal is to improve braking myself for the lowest possible price. If I were not in such financial difficulty I would just have a shop take care of it, but I really want to know for my own personal edification anyhow. I don't have a repair manual, so any tips would be appreciated.

Disc brakes are generally a pretty easy repair. OEM replacement pads can be found at most any part house (Autozone, Pepboys, Advance Auto, etc.) and should be fairly inexpensive, $20-$35. You can just pull the calipers, remove the old pads and put the new ones on. Use some brake grease (small packet usually comes w/pads). Now if your rotors are warped or severely glazed or gouged they'll at minimum need to be turned. You should be able to pull them yourself and take them to NAPA or the like and get them turned for $5-$10 each. But as you said if they've been turned once already they may not have enough material left on them and the shop won't turn them again, which means new rotors <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/frown.gif" alt="" />. Good luck,

Found these on ebay:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/e...p;category=33567&item=2426149328

Autozone and other auto parts stores do NOT sell OEM pads. OEM pads are from the OEM- Toyota.

I would highly recommend Toyota pads as well. They are about the best you can buy for your truck.

Replacing them is nearly as easy as changing a tire, however if your rotors are glazed, they probably need to be turned.

Check the T100 FAQ for discount Toyota parts sources.

youll probably be in need of new rotors now too . the squeling was probably because who ever did you pad replacemnt before didnt put the anti sqeuling thing back behind the pads when they were replaced. that with a little spot of grease to hold them in place . i almost didnt putthem in when i did my new brakes because they new pads didnt come with them , and they werent oem pads . but i slipped them in atthe last minute , my only problem was ,my rotors were so warped that i had to cut so much off that they warped again within a month . now i bought some slotted rotors which are sitting in my bedroom waiting for me to put them on , hopefully ill get to it tomorrow.

airrikk17

I just replaced the rotors on my 96 T, so if you are interested in purchasing my original rotors I would be happy to sell them. They do need to be turned but have never been done before so plenty of meat left. They actually look and feel pretty smooth except for one spot so you might even be able to get off without turning them, but that is not the recommended way to do it. Send me a PM if interested and we can talk price.

Hey, could you let me know how the slotted rotors work with the T's brakes? I have a Tundra, and am thinking about making that upgrade. I was hoping you could pass some feedback with it. I am pretty sure it's worth it...but, all opinions for me are good. :] Thank you. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/rodent.gif" alt="" />

see new post about the slotted rotors , jsut got them finished.

airrikk17

I installed cross-drilled rotors (power stop) rather than the slotted ones as the writeups I found (no longer have reference) seemed to say the drilled were better for the offroad applications, with less pad wear then slotted. I have not noticed too much difference yet but have not wheeled them and still waiting for the larger tires.

I may take you up on that rotor offer Kookadala after I get a chance to access how bad mine are. I ordered the pads from the eBay link above. I figure that is probably better than what I have on there now, warped rotors or not.

Can someone describe what a good rotor versus a bad rotor would look like? I imagine a good one is as smooth and flat as a CD's outward appearance, whereas a bad one would be grooved like a record with sorta a rolling hill surface. Would that be a fair comparison?

When I can afford to do better, I'd like some "tough as nails" braking system because I am one of those impatient drivers that likes to get where they are going in a very alert way and then stop and wait eagerly for the next opportunity to move forward (generally, when the traffic light changes green I look back seconds later and notice the car line behind me has just barely started moving - I just go the split second the traffic light changes green). The lethargic nature of drivers in my area is frustrating, but also very demanding on my brakes as I have to stop short often to compensate for bewildering, random stops many drivers perform here.

Maybe if I posted some pictures of what my rotors look like, I could get some opinions from you experts on here?

Freshly turned rotors are the way yours should look when you install new pads. They are smooth, shiny, and very flat. If yours are grooved like a record then they need to be turned. You can measure them with a caliper to see if there is still enough metal to have them turned. I know the measurement is in the repair manuals but dont have it off the top of my head. I will try to look it up later.

Sometimes the minimum measurement is on the rotor itself.

Just did a complete front brake job on mine and the rotor minimum is 23mm. I know this because mine were 22mm <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/mad.gif" alt="" /> so I had to buy new ones. Luckily they weren't too expensive (~$35 apiece). Apparently though there were 2 different types and the other ones were like $85 each and no longer available. I did the whole job, including repacking the wheel bearings (what a mess but recommended if they haven't been done in a while) in about 8 hours. But I'm the slowest mechanic there ever was <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif" alt="" />.

Yes, that was the number that I remembered, 23 mm or for all yall mericans. .9055"

Without even popping the front tires off to have a look, I suspect I am going to need new rotors as they had been cut before and I think I remember the mechanic telling me it was the last cut they could ever make to them.

So where can I buy new rotors for $35/piece? I think it would be a good idea for me to also replace them with the pads I just got yesterday from that eBay auction.

I feel so mechanically inadequate with two brothers that are service mechanics (in another state), but I am determined to do this myself and do it right. Basically my older brother said I need to:

1) remove wheel
2) remove old pads
3) use C-clamp and old brake pad against caliper to hold the caliper open to slip in the new pads.
4) use High-Tach spray to spray on opposite side of pad (caliper side) to reduce possible screeching (since previous mechanic must have thrown out clips mentioned in this thread)
5) apply silicone grease to lube the caliper assembly, so the pads can freely move on either side (so the caliper assembly won't favor gripping one side of the rotor from the other and cause uneven braking).

Did I get the jist of his instructions? Please let me know of any tips/corrections to them. Also if I do replace the rotors, how hard would that be on the T100? I don't know anything about that or 'repacking the wheel bearings'. I think I am going to have fratt97t100 beat with a 10+ hour brake job until I better understand the complete process. So is repacking the wheel bearings essential to good brake operation? Is this what my bro was talking about when he mentioned flushing the brake fluid by one person putting their foot on the brake while the other is at the master cylinder adding brake fluid and getting air bubbles out of the brake hoses?

T100Jedi,
First I'd recommend you pick up at least a Chilton's or Hanynes manual ($10-$16 at local parts store). As for rotors, I got mine a the local Advance Autoparts Store ($35ea). I found on the T100's you don't actually have to remove the calipers if you aren't doing anything with the rotors. You just remove 2 pins and the spring retainer to get at the pads. But since you do plan on replacing the rotors you'll have to remove the caliper and you should repack the wheel bearing in the hub since you'll have to remove the hub from the rotor to replace it. But this will be a lot clearere when you look in a repair manual (it has pictures <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif" alt="" />). Good luck,

Thanks Fratt! I think I'll pick up the Haynes guide. I was wondering if it is the $29.98 rotor here that you bought:

http://www.partsamerica.com/SelectP...PartTypes&searchfor=Disc%2FRotor

I think that sounds like a good deal considering the alternatives listed. Only problem is that I have 2WD and not 4WD. Will it make a difference?

since you have a 2wd , youll have even less problems with the brake job , or of at least installing the new rotors . repacking the bearings isnt hard , its jsut messy , id suggest you pick up a box of latex gloves from the store ( most auto parts stores carry them ) or find a friend that works for a doc or dentist to steal you a box of them . once you have the rotor hub assembly off youll take out the roller bearing by removing the axle seal ( buy a couple of new ones , yours may have 2 per side , cal laroound for the best price , napa sold me mine for around $20 , someone else said they got them at the dealer for $5 ) then take a hand ful of high temp bearing grease in your hand and place bearing in hand and roll it around until its all good and greasy . replace bearing in hub , replace axle seal(s). and put back on truck the same way you took it off . be sure to hang the caliper by some zip ties so that the brake line isnt taking al lthe weight , all that will be described in the book , be sure to not get any grease on the new rotors or pads .
its a fairly simple job if youve done brakes before , i still remember my first brake job , i was poor , in high school , and needed brakes badly , so i did it cheaply and did it my self .
im not sure about the 2wd rotors , but on the 4wd , the rootors are attached to the hub . you have to unbolt them which at first seems hard , but if you place your wheel upside down , and put the hib rotor assembly into it with the studs going into the wheel like it was on it , then use a large socket wrench to undo the bolts on the back side of the hub . worked like a charm for me , after fighting the first bolt and having to find a simplier way to do it.

well thats all the info i can think of off the top of my head from last weekends rotor replacement i did .

airrikk17

Jedi,
Not sure what the differences are btwn 2wd and 4wd rotors but the Advance Auto computer brought up 2 rotors and asked what size the rear brake shoes were. I did not know so I just took the rotor in and made sure the ones at the store matched mine. Luckily they had 2 left in stock that were the correct ones <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif" alt="" /> (sometimes I do catch a break). Anyway, as airrikk stated you have to remove the hub from the rotor, luckily I have an air impact wrench otherwise it would have been a tougher job to get the bolts out. Sounds like airrikk found an way. You'll likely need a breaker bar or large ratchet. Then I had to drive a thick metal chisel in btwn the 2 parts to get them apart. As for regreasing the wheel bearings, I have one of those bearing packing tools (just 2 plastic cones w/a grease fitting, there's a pic in the repair manual). It makes repacking a little easier and it helps in getting all the old grease out. Should not be more that 4-5 bucks at the parts store. Good luck,

Thanks for the additional tips/advice. On my drive home from work last night I noticed my brakes getting noticeably more grinding. By the time I coasted in my driveway I stepped on the brakes and almost had none (massive grinding). Needless to say, my wife drove me to work this morning.

Last night we barely made it in Advance Auto Parts before closing, but they were able to order Wearever YH141895 brake rotors. They said they will have them for me Saturday morning. In the meantime I am looking for a Haynes or Chilton's manual, so I cam do the brake job this weekend.

My question to the group.. I need new seals, right? Is this what I need? TIMKEN WHEEL SEAL - FRONT ?

Let me know and I will get some (how many do I need for my 2WD '96 T-100?) along with bearing grease, lubricant for the pins and some of that sticky spray for the backside (caliper side) of the brake pads (to minimize squeeling since the new pads didn't come with the backing that prevents that).

That seems like the right part. Not 100% on 2wd though. As for things you'll need, basic hand tools and maybe a c-clamp to push the pistons back in to get the caliper off. And definitely the manual. It'll have a list of tools needed and step-by-step guide for the whole job, including pictures! Good luck.

Got the manual, wheel bearing packing grease, brake cleaner, 3" c-clamp, wheel seals, caliper grease & brake silence compound.. got up bright and early on this sunny day (rain was forecast) and the parts store did not get in my rotors. Since UPS doesn't ship saturday or sunday here, I have to wait til monday unless their slow truck ships it in sunday, but it is doubtful. I'm a little upset. I was totally set to do this thing and now I can't. My worry was rain, not the abscence of the rotors. They told me they'd have it saturay morning. Typical UPS service around here!

I went ahead and removed the front passenger-side wheel and took some photos to get opinions. Here they are. Please have a look and let me know if ordering those new rotors was a good idea.

My Toyota T-100 brake assembledge

It's all I can really do now since I called around and there's not a single rotor or any type that I can get right away in my area. The best I can do is study the manual. I spent another hour talking to one of my brothers (mechanic) and he explained the process in more detail last night. By the time I actually get to do the job, I hope it goes smooth as silk.

By the way.. I couldn't seem to get a good picture of how thick the pads were, but they were about as thick as 3 quarters stacked on top of each other, maybe a little less.

Good news.. the slow truck happened to bring in my rotors sunday. Almost bad news.. I overslept and did not wake til 2:30pm and today's forecast was for rain. Good news... it didn't rain. Good news... one of my neighbors I hadn't personally met before was changing the oil on his mom's car and I just happened to ask him if he had any metric sockets (I only had standard). He had a whole 125 piece set and graciously offerd his expertice and hands on helping me out before the sun went down.

The process took us 6 hours.. we had a hell of a time getting the passenger side caliper and caliper bracket bolts off the darn mount on the first wheel. The previous work I had done.. the shop must have used a high torque impact wrench or something to tighten those bolts. I weakened my bad back getting those out, but they finally budged after trying sevarl times with a can of WD-40.

I accidently broke a cotter pin, so it was another trip to the auto parts store halfway through the first wheel. The second wheel was more forgiving on the entire process. Unfortunately on the first wheel.. we had the rotor off and was trying to get the outer bearing off with a screwdriver by prying around and around. The screwdriver slipped and it went up my right nostril. I bled for about a half hour before it finally clotted. Didn't let it stop us though. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif" alt="" />

New rotors, pads, lubed berrings, wheel seals and a nice brake cleaner sprayed where required and I am happy to say that my braking is 150% improved. It's a small miracle and very satisfying. I am getting a slight burn odor, but I suspect that is because we ran out of brake cleaner and I could not clean the opposite side of the last rotor (I wiped it down as best I could with a fresh paper towel), so I suspect some of that original oily stuff is still on the rotor and will hopefully just burn off.

Overall I am very satisfied that a newbie like me learned to do the job in 6 hours. I am very grateful for my neighbor's help. I had showed him the trick my brother's told me about using the rotor and the spindle bolt to knock out the center bearings with a good pull (he's a novice auto mechanic starting school soon and loved the practice).

Good thing I opted to replace the rotors.. the front passenger side had a nice groove in it and the pad material was all gone, so the backing plate was pressed on when stopping (that explains the bad metallic sound I was hearing).

Thanks to the assistance on this forum I have learned alot. Really appreciate it!

New pads will give off a slight burn odor. 6 Hours, good god man <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/shocked.gif" alt="" />

I just reread this thread and things make a whole lot more sense after doing the brake job. What airrikk17 Said about removing the rotor from the hub.. I forgot what he posted and discovered another way to do it. Put the rotor assembly on the ground. Stick a screwdriver in one of the open holes on the rotor. Butt the screwdriver behind your left heal and have a friend step on the opposite side to really force it into the pavement.. you should be able to turn the bolts now. At least that method worked for us. We should have tried it with airrikk17's method. The way we did it worked well enough though. My neighbor did have a breaker bar (he recently bought it), so it was perfect luck for me. We *really* needed it to remove those caliper bolts. I felt a vein popping out of my forehead we pulled so hard. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif" alt="" />

Yeah.. that's counting driving to and from the auto parts store (twice, the rotors and then later cotter pins) and grocery store (gloves) and Sears (bigger 8" C-clamp) (each time driving home first to discover I needed something else). Take out all that wasted time and I'd say we spent less than 3 hours tops on both wheels.

hehe.. now I have everything I need to do more brake jobs!

I hope your c-clamp had flat surfaces on it.

Yup, it was smooth.. had to get the 8" one though as that was the only big clamp ours Sears had in stock and I didn't feel like wasting more precious sunlight to hunt down another. We were really rushing to beat nightfall. I wish traffic didn't suck so back around here. I could have saved so much time on the job if people didn;t drive like morons and trap me behind every traffic signal.

just wait til your trucks lifted and its nice and slow. Then you won't have to worry about a thing. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/kewl.gif" alt="" />

Yeah I can just driver over them <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/cool.gif" alt="" />

I'm back again! This job lasted a DECADE! Same problem with the grinding happened Saturday afternoon. I had put on Toyota OEM pads after I completed this job; maybe 2 years after. The pads on the driver's side looked great, but were worn all the way to bare metal on the passenger side. The rotor on the passenger side also needed to be replaced (can probably be resurfaced, but I had a coupon and got a new rotor for $20.. quicker to swap in new than wait til Monday when shops that can smooth them would open). That was significantly less expensive than the $86/each rotors I had purchased 10 years ago! Timing is everything and with this happening late Saturday there was no way to get a resurfacing in time before stores closed and all mechanics are closed around here Sunday. Anyhow I was barely able to get a new rotor and pads before closing at Advance Auto Parts because the store where I live was out of stock and I had to rush into the next city with 5 minutes to spare before they closed.

Yesterday morning I started on the passenger side and found the top pin to the rotor was ceased so bad there was no moving it. My neighbor and I had to heat it up with a torch and beat the hell out of it to get it to move. Finally after an enormous amount of effort we freed it, cleaned it, lubed it, put in the new rotor, new pads and finally it is working properly. Same problem on the driver's side with also a seized-up top pin in the caliper though we had an easier time getting it to move with the torch. Now I know why the passenger side was always wearing more. I didn't have the knowledge a decade ago to really understand what was all going on and overlooked those pins. I'm pretty sure that one was stuck the too! <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/scared.gif" alt="" />

Anyhow I remembered this thread and thought I would revive it. Anyone know if Toyota OEM pads are lifetime warranty? I remember purchasing them over the Internet by calling some Toyota dealer in Florida over the phone. If there's warranty I'd like to get a fresh set of the Toyota OEM. I settled for a Wearever brand for now as that's all Advanced had in stock! I wonder if I still have the receipt for the Toyota OEM pads.

For sure no... only parts store brands offer lifetime pads...

Good to hear you found the issue tho!

Before you get wrapped up in replacing parts, you have an apparent issue to deal with which is uneven pad/rotor wear.

Pads and rotors should wear fairly ever during their live. One side wearing out faster gives rise to why the excessive wear?