Freshly turned rotors are the way yours should look when you install new pads. They are smooth, shiny, and very flat. If yours are grooved like a record then they need to be turned. You can measure them with a caliper to see if there is still enough metal to have them turned. I know the measurement is in the repair manuals but dont have it off the top of my head. I will try to look it up later.

Sometimes the minimum measurement is on the rotor itself.

Just did a complete front brake job on mine and the rotor minimum is 23mm. I know this because mine were 22mm <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/mad.gif" alt="" /> so I had to buy new ones. Luckily they weren't too expensive (~$35 apiece). Apparently though there were 2 different types and the other ones were like $85 each and no longer available. I did the whole job, including repacking the wheel bearings (what a mess but recommended if they haven't been done in a while) in about 8 hours. But I'm the slowest mechanic there ever was <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif" alt="" />.

Yes, that was the number that I remembered, 23 mm or for all yall mericans. .9055"

Without even popping the front tires off to have a look, I suspect I am going to need new rotors as they had been cut before and I think I remember the mechanic telling me it was the last cut they could ever make to them.

So where can I buy new rotors for $35/piece? I think it would be a good idea for me to also replace them with the pads I just got yesterday from that eBay auction.

I feel so mechanically inadequate with two brothers that are service mechanics (in another state), but I am determined to do this myself and do it right. Basically my older brother said I need to:

1) remove wheel
2) remove old pads
3) use C-clamp and old brake pad against caliper to hold the caliper open to slip in the new pads.
4) use High-Tach spray to spray on opposite side of pad (caliper side) to reduce possible screeching (since previous mechanic must have thrown out clips mentioned in this thread)
5) apply silicone grease to lube the caliper assembly, so the pads can freely move on either side (so the caliper assembly won't favor gripping one side of the rotor from the other and cause uneven braking).

Did I get the jist of his instructions? Please let me know of any tips/corrections to them. Also if I do replace the rotors, how hard would that be on the T100? I don't know anything about that or 'repacking the wheel bearings'. I think I am going to have fratt97t100 beat with a 10+ hour brake job until I better understand the complete process. So is repacking the wheel bearings essential to good brake operation? Is this what my bro was talking about when he mentioned flushing the brake fluid by one person putting their foot on the brake while the other is at the master cylinder adding brake fluid and getting air bubbles out of the brake hoses?

T100Jedi,
First I'd recommend you pick up at least a Chilton's or Hanynes manual ($10-$16 at local parts store). As for rotors, I got mine a the local Advance Autoparts Store ($35ea). I found on the T100's you don't actually have to remove the calipers if you aren't doing anything with the rotors. You just remove 2 pins and the spring retainer to get at the pads. But since you do plan on replacing the rotors you'll have to remove the caliper and you should repack the wheel bearing in the hub since you'll have to remove the hub from the rotor to replace it. But this will be a lot clearere when you look in a repair manual (it has pictures <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif" alt="" />). Good luck,

Thanks Fratt! I think I'll pick up the Haynes guide. I was wondering if it is the $29.98 rotor here that you bought:

http://www.partsamerica.com/SelectP...PartTypes&searchfor=Disc%2FRotor

I think that sounds like a good deal considering the alternatives listed. Only problem is that I have 2WD and not 4WD. Will it make a difference?

since you have a 2wd , youll have even less problems with the brake job , or of at least installing the new rotors . repacking the bearings isnt hard , its jsut messy , id suggest you pick up a box of latex gloves from the store ( most auto parts stores carry them ) or find a friend that works for a doc or dentist to steal you a box of them . once you have the rotor hub assembly off youll take out the roller bearing by removing the axle seal ( buy a couple of new ones , yours may have 2 per side , cal laroound for the best price , napa sold me mine for around $20 , someone else said they got them at the dealer for $5 ) then take a hand ful of high temp bearing grease in your hand and place bearing in hand and roll it around until its all good and greasy . replace bearing in hub , replace axle seal(s). and put back on truck the same way you took it off . be sure to hang the caliper by some zip ties so that the brake line isnt taking al lthe weight , all that will be described in the book , be sure to not get any grease on the new rotors or pads .
its a fairly simple job if youve done brakes before , i still remember my first brake job , i was poor , in high school , and needed brakes badly , so i did it cheaply and did it my self .
im not sure about the 2wd rotors , but on the 4wd , the rootors are attached to the hub . you have to unbolt them which at first seems hard , but if you place your wheel upside down , and put the hib rotor assembly into it with the studs going into the wheel like it was on it , then use a large socket wrench to undo the bolts on the back side of the hub . worked like a charm for me , after fighting the first bolt and having to find a simplier way to do it.

well thats all the info i can think of off the top of my head from last weekends rotor replacement i did .

airrikk17

Jedi,
Not sure what the differences are btwn 2wd and 4wd rotors but the Advance Auto computer brought up 2 rotors and asked what size the rear brake shoes were. I did not know so I just took the rotor in and made sure the ones at the store matched mine. Luckily they had 2 left in stock that were the correct ones <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif" alt="" /> (sometimes I do catch a break). Anyway, as airrikk stated you have to remove the hub from the rotor, luckily I have an air impact wrench otherwise it would have been a tougher job to get the bolts out. Sounds like airrikk found an way. You'll likely need a breaker bar or large ratchet. Then I had to drive a thick metal chisel in btwn the 2 parts to get them apart. As for regreasing the wheel bearings, I have one of those bearing packing tools (just 2 plastic cones w/a grease fitting, there's a pic in the repair manual). It makes repacking a little easier and it helps in getting all the old grease out. Should not be more that 4-5 bucks at the parts store. Good luck,

Thanks for the additional tips/advice. On my drive home from work last night I noticed my brakes getting noticeably more grinding. By the time I coasted in my driveway I stepped on the brakes and almost had none (massive grinding). Needless to say, my wife drove me to work this morning.

Last night we barely made it in Advance Auto Parts before closing, but they were able to order Wearever YH141895 brake rotors. They said they will have them for me Saturday morning. In the meantime I am looking for a Haynes or Chilton's manual, so I cam do the brake job this weekend.

My question to the group.. I need new seals, right? Is this what I need? TIMKEN WHEEL SEAL - FRONT ?

Let me know and I will get some (how many do I need for my 2WD '96 T-100?) along with bearing grease, lubricant for the pins and some of that sticky spray for the backside (caliper side) of the brake pads (to minimize squeeling since the new pads didn't come with the backing that prevents that).