I haven't seen a FSM diagram of the control system but I think the limit switch should cut the power through the relays when the fork gets to the end of travel. Can you wire it so the lock sensor switch cuts the power rather than the limit switch? It would take another relay to do this.

I really shouldn't be offering suggestions since I can't make my controller work right either. I would still like to see your diagrams. Thanks and good luck.

</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Tahoma, Arial, Helv, Helvetica, Sans">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Tahoma, Arial, Helv, Helvetica, Sans">Originally posted by jx94148:
<strong>I would still like to see your diagrams. Thanks and good luck.</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Tahoma, Arial, Helv, Helvetica, Sans">I will clean them up and scan them for you this evening.

Wiring challenge--look at this wiring diagram and determine if I have the diff lock light hooked up properly. If so, it means the rear differential is not completely locking as Karl suggested earlier.

What you see here is the factory wiring diagram with my wiring depicted in red:

<img src="http://home.off-road.com/~kemanuel/forum/WTF_thumb.jpg" alt="" />

Here is a much larger version of that picture (200KB)

I just noticed something...if I bypass the diff lock detection switch and hook a wire straight to ground, I get a solid green light. (EXACTLY what you would expect.) Now you engage the diff lock dash switch and you get the blinking green. That makes no sense--if the detection switch is grounded, it shouldn't matter what position the dash switch is in. Perhaps I should use some other input to power the LED besides the "RLP" input on the ECU... <img border="0" title="" alt="[Confused]" src="images/icons/confused.gif" />

Thanks Ken, its back to the drawing board for me. And I have to hit the junkyards again. What fun, I should have gotten the whole system in the first place. I'd rather have the factory switch and controler anyway.

Still wishing you all good luck, Matt

Hey Ken, switch looks great!

I tend to agree with Karl, I think that you don't have the actuator on the correct tooth, so it's not sliding the cog all the way to the locked position, which is why you're not getting the solid green light. I believe that what I did was to pull the motor off with all the wires hooked up, then I set my switch to "Locked" so that the limit switch inside the actuator would spin the motor all the way then shut off. Then I manually slid the fork to the fully locked position (causing the Locked light to turn on), and stabbed the motor onto the diff, the teeth lined up perfectly. I exercised it back and forth a few times, it worked perfectly. This is on the FJ80 front hi-pinion locker, but should work the same with you 4Runner locker.

FYI: I did not use the factory ECU or switch, I preferred to wire my own relay box. I have little indicator lights in my box that tell me when the relays are energized, this confirms that it's working properly. Here's a crappy pic of my relay box:
<img src="http://www.yankeetoys.org/members/klf/Locker_ECU.jpg" alt="" />

I have a main power switch that kills power to everything, with a light (red one) that tells me when the switch is on.

I have simple toggle switches on the dash with lights:
<img src="http://www.yankeetoys.org/members/klf/Taz/LockerSwitches.jpg" alt="" />

Don't know what to tell ya about that RLP connection, part of the problem is that I have no idea what RLP is doing.

</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Tahoma, Arial, Helv, Helvetica, Sans">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Tahoma, Arial, Helv, Helvetica, Sans">Originally posted by KLF:
<strong>...I believe that what I did was to pull the motor off with all the wires hooked up, then I set my switch to "Locked" so that the limit switch inside the actuator would spin the motor all the way then shut off. Then I manually slid the fork to the fully locked position (causing the Locked light to turn on), and stabbed the motor onto the diff, the teeth lined up perfectly.</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Tahoma, Arial, Helv, Helvetica, Sans">I suppose the limit switches will prevent the motor from jamming like Carl Whitmore experienced...good idea.

</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Tahoma, Arial, Helv, Helvetica, Sans">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Tahoma, Arial, Helv, Helvetica, Sans"><strong>
Don't know what to tell ya about that RLP connection, part of the problem is that I have no idea what RLP is doing.</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Tahoma, Arial, Helv, Helvetica, Sans">Wish I knew too. My best guess is that RLP's sole purpose is to flash the dashboard-diff lock light until it receives confirmation from the diff lock indicator switch that the diff is actually locked. <img border="0" title="" alt="[Confused]" src="images/icons/confused.gif" />

Thanks for your response.

</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Tahoma, Arial, Helv, Helvetica, Sans">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Tahoma, Arial, Helv, Helvetica, Sans">Originally posted by YourMom:
<strong>I just noticed something...if I bypass the diff lock detection switch and hook a wire straight to ground, I get a solid green light. (EXACTLY what you would expect.) Now you engage the diff lock dash switch and you get the blinking green. That makes no sense--if the detection switch is grounded, it shouldn't matter what position the dash switch is in. Perhaps I should use some other input to power the LED besides the "RLP" input on the ECU... <img border="0" title="" alt="[Confused]" src="images/icons/confused.gif" /> </strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Tahoma, Arial, Helv, Helvetica, Sans">Ok, here is what I think the locker ECU is doing. It sends out a 1 sec pulse to drive the electric motor. It will continue to send out this pulse until the RLP switch detects the diff being locked. This is why you see the light on the dash blinking. It is trying to send out the pulse to drive the electric motor until it locks. It only sends out a pulse to prevent the electric motor from jamming.

Grounding the RLP tricks the locker ECU to think that the locker is locked, so it stops sending pulses to the electric motor.

Ok, I reread your post and you said that the light blinks, even if the RLP is ground and the switch is activated.
It could use the other grounds in the wiring to detect that the locker is locked, but uses both grounds to confirm
that the locker is locked. If the ECU is waiting on both wires to be grounded, then it won't stop locking the locker.

<small>[ 09 April 2002, 09:25 AM: Message edited by: Karl ]</small>

</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Tahoma, Arial, Helv, Helvetica, Sans">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Tahoma, Arial, Helv, Helvetica, Sans">Originally posted by Karl:
<strong>Ok, here is what I think the locker ECU is doing. It sends out a 1 sec pulse to drive the electric motor. It will continue to send out this pulse until the RLP switch detects the diff being locked. This is why you see the light on the dash blinking. It is trying to send out the pulse to drive the electric motor until it locks. It only sends out a pulse to prevent the electric motor from jamming.
</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Tahoma, Arial, Helv, Helvetica, Sans">Karl, could you please elaborate more on the motor jamming issue? I wiried my locker up using relays on the limit switches. I apply continuous voltage to the motor until it reaches the limit switch. It always takes a little less than one second to reach the limit switch, and I can hear the motor running continuously during that time period. However, the locker usually won't lock/unlock immediatly, as indicated by the locked-indicator-switch. I usually have to roll a short distance for it to engage/disengage. I can usually hear a click when it engages, and a louder pop when it disengages.

Based on the above, I am under the impression that the actual locking mechanism is spring-loaded. The electric actuating mechanism simplyloads/unloads the fork that moves the splined sleeve in and out. Therefore, I do not understand the need to pulse the motor until it locks/unlocks. Can anyone shed some light on all of this for me? <img border="0" title="" alt="[Confused]" src="images/icons/confused.gif" /> <img border="0" title="" alt="[Confused]" src="images/icons/confused.gif" /> <img border="0" title="" alt="[Confused]" src="images/icons/confused.gif" />

<small>[ 09 April 2002, 11:11 AM: Message edited by: thecarterman ]</small>

Mike--my locker is from a '98 Limited and has no springs whatsoever. With the solenoid removed, I was easily able to slide the fork mechanism between the locked and unlocked states. I also operated the motor while it was detached from the diff--hit the diff lock button, the gear on the end of the motor would turn about 1/2 a revolution and stop--hit the diff lock button again and the motor would turn 1/2 a revolution in the other direction and stop. The process takes just under 1 second. You'll be sorry if you run the motor without the limit switches hooked up.

I also found that the diff lock indicator switch would light up the locked light when the locker was only about 3/4 of the way locked.

<small>[ 09 April 2002, 11:07 PM: Message edited by: YourMom ]</small>