Hey Ken, switch looks great!

I tend to agree with Karl, I think that you don't have the actuator on the correct tooth, so it's not sliding the cog all the way to the locked position, which is why you're not getting the solid green light. I believe that what I did was to pull the motor off with all the wires hooked up, then I set my switch to "Locked" so that the limit switch inside the actuator would spin the motor all the way then shut off. Then I manually slid the fork to the fully locked position (causing the Locked light to turn on), and stabbed the motor onto the diff, the teeth lined up perfectly. I exercised it back and forth a few times, it worked perfectly. This is on the FJ80 front hi-pinion locker, but should work the same with you 4Runner locker.

FYI: I did not use the factory ECU or switch, I preferred to wire my own relay box. I have little indicator lights in my box that tell me when the relays are energized, this confirms that it's working properly. Here's a crappy pic of my relay box:
<img src="http://www.yankeetoys.org/members/klf/Locker_ECU.jpg" alt="" />

I have a main power switch that kills power to everything, with a light (red one) that tells me when the switch is on.

I have simple toggle switches on the dash with lights:
<img src="http://www.yankeetoys.org/members/klf/Taz/LockerSwitches.jpg" alt="" />

Don't know what to tell ya about that RLP connection, part of the problem is that I have no idea what RLP is doing.