</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Tahoma, Arial, Helv, Helvetica, Sans">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Tahoma, Arial, Helv, Helvetica, Sans">Originally posted by KLF:
<strong>...I believe that what I did was to pull the motor off with all the wires hooked up, then I set my switch to "Locked" so that the limit switch inside the actuator would spin the motor all the way then shut off. Then I manually slid the fork to the fully locked position (causing the Locked light to turn on), and stabbed the motor onto the diff, the teeth lined up perfectly.</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Tahoma, Arial, Helv, Helvetica, Sans">I suppose the limit switches will prevent the motor from jamming like Carl Whitmore experienced...good idea.

</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Tahoma, Arial, Helv, Helvetica, Sans">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Tahoma, Arial, Helv, Helvetica, Sans"><strong>
Don't know what to tell ya about that RLP connection, part of the problem is that I have no idea what RLP is doing.</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Tahoma, Arial, Helv, Helvetica, Sans">Wish I knew too. My best guess is that RLP's sole purpose is to flash the dashboard-diff lock light until it receives confirmation from the diff lock indicator switch that the diff is actually locked. <img border="0" title="" alt="[Confused]" src="images/icons/confused.gif" />

Thanks for your response.