</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Tahoma, Arial, Helv, Helvetica, Sans">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Tahoma, Arial, Helv, Helvetica, Sans">Originally posted by I Lean:
<strong>I might be mis-reading this, but I've never had either of my actuators jam.</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Tahoma, Arial, Helv, Helvetica, Sans">Sorry, it was Mike Carter's article that brought that issue up.

</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Tahoma, Arial, Helv, Helvetica, Sans">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Tahoma, Arial, Helv, Helvetica, Sans">Originally posted by Karl:
<strong>This is with the electric/motor disconnected from the diff? Are they both grounded to the same source? Basically, are you using a common ground for the electric motor, and the locking sensor in the diff?</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Tahoma, Arial, Helv, Helvetica, Sans">Yes and Yes. The two white-black wires coming out of the diff (one is ground for the detection switch and the other is ground for the limit switches) are soldered together and grounded in the same spot as the ground for the ECU. This is exactly how the factory does it according to the wiring diagram I posted above.

Mike, the pulsing thing has me confused too. The motor will run continuously in either direction until the limit switches are triggered. However, the 'RLP' obviously sends 1 second pulses--otherwise my LED on the dashboard would not be flashing.

There is something on the wiring diagram I posted above that all of us are missing. As I mentioned before, the position of the dash switch should not affect operation of the diff lock detection switch and the LED that is hooked to the same circuit.