Earlier I posted about swapping motors(still thinkin' <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/shiner.gif" alt="" />); now I am just curious how easy it is to get mo power out of the 22re. I know EB sells a kit on ebay that is good for something like 140hp at the crank, but how hard is it to get more after that without breaking the bank and sky-high compression or a power adder <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/shocked.gif" alt="" />. If I could make 150-160 without 12.5 to 1 compression, that would be ideal and I probably wouldn't swap in a different motor <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/rolleyes.gif" alt="" />. If I keep my motor, I would rebuild the shortblock back to standard with the needed overbore, bolt on a eb street rv head with o/s valves and a rv bumpstick(maybe adjustable top gear) and top it off with a header and free-flow exhaust. I am curious what to do after that to get more than 140 or so.

Sheesh, I am beating myself to death over this. I probably should just swap in the 2.7 and forget about it <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/pfft.gif" alt="" />; if my friend would hurry up and finish his swap so I can get his motor. Or I can build my motor to 150hp.......What to do, what to do <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif" alt="" />. Help <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/baby.gif" alt="" />

You cannot get that sort of power out of a 22RE without high compression or a power adder. Period. Sorry.

140 crank hp on a 22RE is a big improvement over stock (stock being 116 hp). Remember, this is basically a single over head cam forklift enigne. It has torque, and it has longevity, but it won't make a lot of power on its own.

Good luck,

Jeff

>>>*Well, we did manage to tease one up to 161 ponies, but the problem was that no one over the age of 17 wanted to try and drive it...
No matter what we do, around 140 is the upper limit and still keep the old girl streetable.
There are some $$$$ stroker combinations that add size, and torque. The surprise might be that the actual horsepower output is still around 140 or so, but the torque curve is early and better.

The stroker can be forced a bit with cam and head/porting combinations to make the horsepower numbers, though..

Then we end up back where we started, PIA* to drive..

Since the description of a forklift engine is accurate, best to take that into consideration, set the goals accordingly.

They will come out sweet on the street, nice and fuel efficient, and get one down the road nicely.

One point I might make: The very first step after buying the Toyota is the trip to the tire shop. Those big tires will do the power in, so think gears before you call up your friendly neighborhood cam salesman....*EB

I looked into this myself and found that for the money an M series swap is the way to go. You could easily spend twice as much on your R series and still only have the 140hp. I think the R series is a great motor and moves the Toyota 4x4s fine unless you are on the hwy or are running the bigger tires.

I say build the little bastige thats in there now! Damn refreshing to wake up and see the terminology used in your post...Bumpstick, Street RV ahhh yes gets the blood flowing better than coffee or slippery hot nekkid big breasted honey could ever do! Bear in mind that ALOT more power and you is gonna have to start changing tings...transmission, diffs, driveshafts...nothing looks more silly than a toyota 4x4 with ladder bars! hehehe
EB built me 2 of theeeeee finest motors in existance today and both are 22R late model mills. Both have been setup with EFI of course and are proven power providers for this peon. Get the bottom end solid and sound with some cooling improvements/weight reduction then bolt on that there Street RV with the bumpstick (gotta love it) open up the exhuast and you'll be impressed. Standard compression numbers mind you...well at least on one of them. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/ignore.gif" alt="" /> I dont use a header on either motor, stock manni's downpipes, ones catted one aint. Then its on to 2" pipe back to a 2-1/4" Raptor muffler and exiting the whole thing with 2-1/4" pipe. Great low end, great mid-range and great top-end. Still havent found the top-end limit on the newest creation....too scared too!
~Darin <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/baby.gif" alt="" />

**True I dont run huge-azz 37" tires, but c'mon its a freaking toyota not hummer! with 30x9.50s I can not only maintain speed uphill in 5th gear but can actually accelerate. Tough as nails redone bottom end and bolting on a Street RV complete with the nasty stick...less than $1500 easy!!! And there aint no ECU or Wiring headaches involved like swaps got! Give it a ponder..your truck your cash. I would be more than happy to help you disperse it though! lol

You make a compelling argument. Stinker.
I sent EB an email, see what's what. Just can't tell what would be cooler, a 3.4 in a first gen, or a hot-n-simple 2.4 that motivates the lardbutt Red Chili. I think I know which would be cheaper and easier... <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/drunk.gif" alt="" />

<img src="/forums/images/graemlins/frown.gif" alt="" /> Stinker? lol
Guessing you didnt catch my reply to you in the castaways post about coming down and corrupting your son...all in all, I like sticking with what I know when I need it to go. Gimme something to play with and ponder anyday of the week so long as I dont need it to start and run first thing in the morning!
~Darin <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/baby.gif" alt="" />

"New motto: If you got a pocket full of green....I'll help ya git rid of it!" ok...so maybe not. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/notooth.gif" alt="" />

I already possess unique skills in that area. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/pfft.gif" alt="" />

I just seen a post over in the 4runners bracket mentioning the required 7th injector to keep the bolt on 3.4 SC from from pre-detonating and running lean. Care to guess the add to base cost? "insert final jeopardy music here"



A measily $1200-$1300 on top of the initial (if you can find it) $1800. So first you have to acquire the 3.4 and redo the entire trucks eating and farting systems, redo its nervous system and brain...THEN shell out the the cash that pushes retirement off till the age of 70 for the SC and then add on more working years to buy the damn injector needed to make the whole SOB work! That doesnt include the aftermarket fuel pump and regulators to insure proper fuel supply to the injectors. Boy howdy...all of a sudden 2.4 buildups are looking awfully sweet! hehehe. Heck for the cost of the SC and injector I can super build two 22R-E:DBs!
**Sidenote here- never give up on todays youth...while they can be strong minded all it takes is the right angle. Besides your boy is at that age where womens are cool...he'll learn in time that engines is too! hehehe Tell him I said hello and I am working on a mediocre-wont get ya busted by the local law- kinda motor. Shhhhhhh
~Darin <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/baby.gif" alt="" />

**That there antelope sounds delicious. Gonna have to figure out how to acquire me some. Ive got Chinook and Coho fillets finishing up drypack brine as I type...gonna head home shortly (SARS is acting up <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/rolleyes.gif" alt="" />) and put them in the secret finishing soak and hopefully have the big chief loaded before 10 pm tonight. Mmmmmm smoked fishies <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/kewl.gif" alt="" />

>>>*Send the money directly to my Paypal account, and please be quick, we are flying out to Reno in the morni...

*I mean, I will go to work on trying to figure it out as soon as we get ba..

I mean...*uhh...*LOL**...*EB