Actually, he really is beyond corruption. In the best sense. He thinks women are too much trouble (though they do interest...) and motors are awesome. He wants to build up his 2.4 with 60K miles, SAS it, and flatbed it. Now, in that light little truck, THAT will be FUN.
"Dad, can I PLEEEEEZE have my truck back before you get a ticket???!?!?!!"

BUT..... you are thinking to danged hard for a Friday my fine shooting (at antelope butt) friend! lol Theres no dino numbers to support my motor, just the "oh sh*t hang on" factors. Mmmmmm...toasty. Sorry eating Quiznos for lunch <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/nana.gif" alt="" /> Anyways...its all in the person looking at the upgrades. If they have the resources to handle all the fabrication needed for a swap-and they are up to the task then more power to them. I'll eventually get to that stage but currently I havent done everything possible to the stockers yet to be satisfied enough to move on. Cores can be bought relatively cheap these days. Start fresh with someone elses mistake. I picked up a complete 22R out of an 85' for $100 and a good a joke! That motor has long been redone and resold outta Teds Emporium of Fast Little Fuc**rs months ago hehehe. All it takes is getting one up in the game and you are set. Currently I have the 4Runners mill to toy with...freshly rebuilt to .040 over less than 5,000 miles ago. Head is sound, bottom end was done wrong but its still workable. Get ahold of something like that so you can be in the know regarding the bottom end, toss on a dreamed up top end and there is no warranty issues involved. See what I mean Vern...err Bill? lol Theres a butt ton of power to be unleashed in these little motors that can be had for very little capital investment. (capital means money for those of you scratching your heads) <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/notooth.gif" alt="" /> Trick is learning from others what combos work and what combos bite. Take that from the head of the newly forming PLF - Pony Liberation Front for 22Rs! Bwahahahahaha

~Darin <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/baby.gif" alt="" />

e z to do...
as thief has proven
bored throttle body
modded efi
then scoop out the intake or replace
OR put BIG valves in the head
only E B has mentioned using a larger cam...
that's usually the FIRST thing modders do
jeez, it CAN be done and has been done
and you don't lose the n/a powerband

OR get dual carbs and cam - 180 hp right there

AND/OR n2o...
instant 50 or more hp
very risky for someone who duzn't understand it fully tho
50 or more hp for $500 or LESS...
(rather expensive to buy n2o tho)

I would disagree. It can be done, but not easily. Thief has about $8k is his motor. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/shocked.gif" alt="" /> 140 hp might be easily obtainable but after that the cost starts rising quickly.

If you have a 2.7 availble use it. I have driven many of the older toys and let me tell ya the 2.7 is a very big improvement in power, it is strong out of the box and toyota reliable.

John

larger throttle and more rad cam
there's your 150 or 160 hp
under $500 if you already hav the 140 hp mods...

i saw dual carbs and intake for under a grand

there are a few complete efi systems
some hav spark control too
$1500 tops
one is like $200...

of course there's work involved
but it's all bolt on stuff

Sorry to be a skeptic but I believe that it is far more involved then you make it sound. Most of the lower cost EFI systems that I have seen work good at WOT but when cold or during partial throttle they do not seem to function as good as the stock EFI. Maybe good for the track but not exactly what I want on my daily driver. I just want people to be aware of the sacrifices that would be because I do not believe it is as easy as you make it sound.

And just adding more cam and a larger throttle body seems like it would not make such a dramatic difference on an R series motor since my understanding is that the head does not flow well enough to support huge throttle bodies or radical cams. Maybe in the upper RPMs though...

Do you have any dyno numbers for specific combinations you have used?

Precisely what EB said in our email conversation, and that 140 HP achievement includes a ported and big-valved head. Beyond that, the cost curve steepens significantly and driveability suffers all too easily. Not from my knowledge, but I would take EB at his word any day. Still, 140 hp out of a 2.4 for well under a grand (*worst* case!)ain't bad at all.

nope, haven't dun it myself
all i hav is xhaust, eb cam and valves
and a motor in pieces
and constant interruptions
i decided against stroking cuz of cost vs. displacement (hp) gain
i also didn't get the $400 forged pistons cuz i didn't want to bore to the max, leaving no alternative for a rebuild cept a new block
anytime you go for that much hp
you are gonna lose some low end...
which is pretty nonexistent on the 22re anyway
i wuz told eb cam and valves with xhaust will beat a stock 3.0 ...
weight makes a LOT of difference
i notice it wen i merely hav one passenger...

toy changed their website it looks like
no longer hav all the specs it used to
weight and mileage and hp comparisons

Totally agree. My son's lightweight truck is a rocketship compared to my Runner. The 22RE does run nice down low, it does make decent torque for a small motor and I understand a heavy flywheel helps too... but it wakes up at 2700. So does the 3.0 and the 3.4, but the 3.4 pulls really fine down low too. No doubt bigger is better, but is it ENOUGH better to justify the effort and $$$? The answer is subjective.