ok..I'm looking at giving my sportage a spring lift...
I know its been discused at to if you have to replace the shocks ....but I want to know...if its better to go a longer shock...or stay stock shock with eibach spring lift?
I'll also most likely be getting the 31 inch tires also..hehe...after our trip the hubby decided they are a little small for the jeep...heh...and sence I have my new ones...I can just swap with the 31" when I'm gonna be out in bigger rocks...and definately going to get skid plates to cover everything possible...<img src="/forums/images/graemlins/kewl.gif" alt="" />

but any how...with the taller springs...
better to get little longer shocks?....or stay stock?

little longer in the rear, same up front (not a longer one made). nice to hear from you again.

Some facts before the question.
Facts:
Mainly street use + Highway for sort oeriods but with 70-80Mph.
Not real 4x4 activity, just very bad roads on the neibourhoud.
would like it a litle taller.
Wheels will remain thne same 205's.
Not much money to spend.

Question
Body lift or spring lift?
either way, how much lift?

spring lift, the only way to make those neighborhood bumps a little better. i'd say about 1-2" if you plan to stick with the stock tire size, otherwise, 3-4".

If you're looking to go clear to 31" tires, you'll probably need to install either the body or spacer lift too. With the body lift and just the Eibach spring lift, my 31" tires are real close during full compression.

As far as shocks go, I've gone with 1" longer than stock shocks, and have had no problems. I get full travel in both directions, but another inch down would be nice too. 3 - 4 inches is a little long unless you're also adding the spacer lift.

Logansportage

As another Californian speaking, I put in Eibachs (from Upgrade Motoring in Reseda-got them in one day) and went from 215 All Terrain to 235 Mud Brutes. Huge difference in height but now I feel every little vibration in the road, every bump and shake the road can give me - and that's just on the freeway. Yeah, new shocks are in order for me (I only have 37,000 mileson it).

When I put on the 235's I had to get new rims (15X7 White spoke steel). Allignment changed (it now pulls to the left when braking and didn't before) and my gas mileage dropped dramatically. I used to get nearly 270 miles to a tank and now get 200. But my biggest concern is the loss of power now.

I hava a daily commute up the Conejo grade (used to be called the Norweign grade because of the ethnic mix of workers who built it) which is one of the steepest (or so I understand) in California. I used to go up the grade in 5th (steady but no passing at 70) and would kick butt in 4th. Now I have to go up the grade in 4th (steady and loses speed at the top) but kicks butt in 3rg (RPM's at 5,000). If I didn't need the Mud Brutes for the upcomong rainy season, I'd put back on the 215's. I've thought of trying to add more power but superchargers go for $3,000 from a custom maker in Florida and the Powerchip, I understand, doesn't work. So I'm at a loss. How can I regain the horse power again ? Consider the larger tires along with the power drain Lady Frog.

just out of curiosity...are you taking in account that your gauges are off due to the larger tire? My gas mileage appears to have gone down considerably when I got the 31's but I also know that I fill up on just about the same regiment that I used to. Bigger tires will mess with your speedo...trip...and Odometer. Unless you get the electrical component to correct the signal. The difference for me in speed is somewhere a little less than 10% Meaning (using exactly 10% as an example) If my speedo says 10 mph I'm actually going 11 mph. If It says 60 I'm really going 66. See where I'm gettin at? Also if you think about it. Your power loss comes from heavier tires coupled with seeing your speeds off. You probably know all this but it's nice to re-itterate for the people who don't realize it. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/kewl.gif" alt="" /> <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/cheers.gif" alt="" />

ahh...this will be simple for me. The lift and how much lift is important for the 31x10.5 tires to be happy on the kia, however these big tires will only be on the kia when its going out on the trails. I'll have to have the bigger rims for the bigger tires giving me 2 sets of rims and tires <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/kewl.gif" alt="" />...this way...I can have my little 215s on when I'm just hopping about. Which isnt much but I do have some nice long I-80 grades to contend with to get anywhere... <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif" alt="" />

Plus swapping out tires keeps wear down on both sets <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/nana.gif" alt="" />
heh...but then again I may like the big ones too much to take off... <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/shiner.gif" alt="" />

That's why I bought the 15X7 rims with the mud tires; so I could switch when the rainy season comes and goes.

Didn't mention before that my front tires rub the front of the wheel well and back of the wheel well when I turn. I hear the sound "shudder" on the front of the wheel well when I back up as I turn at low speed. However at anything over 2nd gear, I don't hear anything. I gues to make it go away I'll have to cut the wheel well. (My tire guy said after the mud's wear a little, it'll disappear.)

My 2000 Sportage 2dr 5-sp sports a 3" body lift that I designed and installed which allows me to run 235/85r16's on 16 x 7 wheels. I have noticed very little power loss (narrow, light 32" tall tires). The Kia has a convential style output on the trans that will accept an aftermarket gear box from a speedo shop that will correct the speedo reading and computer speed sensor. This simple gearbox fixed the problems with poor milage and incorrect engine timing/ computer output. With the body lift and tire choice I only had to trim the rear edge of the front fenders and the factory mud flaps covered the area which now looks stock.