The body lift started ouy as 3" kit for a 73-87 chevy suburban. After removing the nuts and lower body bushings, clearing any connections between the body and frame, removing carpet and interior trim over stud positions inside, and removing the headlights, its time to go to work. I then jacked up one side of the body(floor jack and 4'2x4 for support) to remove the upper body bushings. I then ground off the studs leaving the upper cup for the body bushing intact.Find the center of each stud and drill a 1/4" pilot hole from the bottom through the stud and inner sheet metal. Go inside and, using the pilot hole as a guide, drill a 1.250" (hole saw) hole in the inner sheet metal only for bolt head and washer clearence. From below, drill the pilot to 1/2" and deburr holes. Drop bolts from kit through from top and slide the spacers up the bolts. This is where my fabrication skills came into play, I made 3/16" thk washers(about 1/2" larger dia. than the spacers from the kit) to go between the spacers and the original upper body bushing and 1/2" ID sleeves for spacers between this washer and the original lower washer( about the same length as the unthreaded portion of the original stud. Assemble the kit on one side the proceed to the other. Dont lift the body too high and check constantly for any binding. The wires are long enough to compensate but I had to relocate brake line conections without unhooking the lines ( new line tabs tack welded to body as required)and the front brake lines bent down. I made an aluminum puck 1-1/2" thk. to replace the rubber joint in the steering column. The stock bumpers can be adapted to fit but I have built custom bumpers f&r.

Bumper note: winch bumpers require they be tied into the two front bolts for the steering box and idler, the wavy part of the frame ahead of the steering mounts is designed to colapse and will not support the weight of a winch or the winch pull.