Here is a good link for the yolk strap to u-bolt conversion...I just did it and the local parts house was able to directly cross-match the part number listed.

http://www.off-road.com/jeep/tech/axle/aub.html

Sunder you need to learn a bit more about the Jeep in question (74 CJ5).

First, it already has a fixed yoke on the rear output of the transfer case. All CJ's do.

Second, that old of a CJ already has ubolts in the driveshaft yokes. No straps to change out.

LadyFrog there are numerous, detailed write ups on the internet about spring over conversions. There are several tech articles here at www.jeepwire.com that you may find helpful. Go to www.google.com and search under "Spring over conversion", or "CJ spring over", or something along those lines. See what other people have had to do to properly and safely convert. Then determine if you and hubby have the skills to do it right. Spring over on a CJ5 with the stock narrow axles is not really a good idea. They are just so narrow that you lose what little stability you have. I highly suggest going with wider axles at the same time.

The best thing you can do is learn as much as possible about the pros and cons then make an educated desicion. These boards are helpful, but they tend to leave out lots of details. Too many who reply are merely regurgitating info they have read on the internet instead of first hand experience.

BTW, your problem isn't the spring under and ubolts. It's the little bitty 31's. Going spring over will do nothing if you stay with 31's. Grind the tips off the ubolts and get ubolt skids if they are that big of a problem. My CJ5 on 35s and spring under goes almost as many places as my spring over CJ on 38's goes.

im sorry I stand corrected.

CSP has said it best! The only way to provide more clearance under the CJ (or any Jeep) is to go with taller tires. The amount of modifications and expense is directly related to the tire height you select.

bouts,it's my opinion that SOA isn't a solution for every CJ & YJ . . . I'm satisfied with my setup, but it's not the only way to build a good trail rig. Not every four wheeler is going to need to do the CA's Hammers, or CO's Independence & Die Trying extreme trails. Jeepwire had a great article, perhaps 1-1/2 to 2 years ago, where someone was discussing how to build a "killer spring under YJ."
If simply knowing how to weld was the only requirement to building a safe capable trail rig, there would be a lot of after-market companies and 4x4 shops out of business. My favorite post on another site is about a young guy who bought into the popular myth that anyone, regardless of skill level, can quickly learn what is necessary to do a spring over on a YJ. He apparently followed what he was told by friends and what he learned on the internet site and completed his buildup. He reported that he eagerly jumped into his "new jeep" and drove only the length of his driveway b/c of the vibrations, gear grinding, and noise coming from his jeep!
We generally under-estimate the value of a good experienced 4x4 mechanic; the problem is finding this qualified mechanic. It's one thing to install a rear tail-light assembly, switch out a battery, or change the serpetine fan belt on the YJ; it was quite another project to set up the steering geometry, or resolve the proper tilt to the T60R to avoid the rear driveshaft vibration at highway speeds when setting-up the SOA on my YJ!
It wasn't many years ago that 33" tires were the "big" tires in the after-market for Jeeps. With 33" tires and a 4" lift kit on the YJ, we were doing some pretty difficult trails in Colorado: 21-Road, Holy Cross, Mt Blanca, just to name some difficult trails we ran. 33's and 4" seemed to be just the ticket for most trails, even some of the trails in Moab, such as: Prichet Canyon, Hell's Revenge, Steel Masher, and Behind the rocks. Yeah, we sometimes rub the belly pan on some rocks, but we had a good time, no major repairs or expenses. Having had the pleasure of running the Rubicon, except for the "little sluice", the trail could easily have been done with 33" tires (however, I ran it with 35's).

I dont beleave its spring over thats the problem. its the fact your raising the jeep to make the center of gravity higher. so going with a spring under lift will do the same. But I also dont think one has to shell out for wider axles just get wheels with more offset. as the differance between narrow and wide axles is only 3". <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif" alt="" />

I dont know CJ SOA as well as some or most but I'd like to add that you will not only have to contend with drive line angles but also steering setup and axle wrap. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/cheers.gif" alt="" />

Ok, I'll buy your explanation of the raising center of gravity. It's pretty much a different way to explain what I said, but whatever. The discussion was SOA, so that's what I was talking specifically about.

Now about the difference between narrow and wide. Did I recommend CJ wide track?? No. I said wider axles and left it at that. Personally I like somewhere between Waggie width and full size Chevy width. For many, Waggie or Scout seems to be ideal.

Either way, lifting a CJ5 that high is a bad idea. That's the general point I was shooting for. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/rolleyes.gif" alt="" />

we are looking at going with either 13.5 or 14.5 tire width
probably 35x14.5 or so... this jeep has always been his dream. we know it'll need a drop pitman thingy... and a nice little cv front drive shaft, we dropped the tranny/t-case mounts down a bit to lesson the angle it's mostly common sence....once adjustments are made and bigger tires on...then we'll determine if it will need longer axles..
the wider rims and tires will add 3-4 inches on each side and we also had a good long look at a little cj that has already had this done <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/kewl.gif" alt="" />

Lady Frog please do not do the spring over until you have the right axels or you could spend alot of money for nothing. If you had Dana 44's front and rear great, but you dont corect. Look for a set in a junk yard with the spring over already done off a Scout or Cherikee I think. A lot cheeper. I have spent many hourse trying to figure out Spring Over or Spring under. Best of luck it is a very dificult question to answer, but it all comes down to preference.
Peace,

check out jessy at high angle drivlines for that cv...he makes some wicked stuff. like a 60 degree double cardan CV, you can mount your t-case on your hood and it would still go...bind free.

i'm going to get him to make me some 12" long slips for my CJ <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/kewl.gif" alt="" />