<img src="/forums/images/graemlins/bird.gif" alt="" /> Life just isn't fair. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif" alt="" /> I will be bookmarking this post for future use; thanks for the info.

Willcipher, some good info.

we did 2 99 spec 5vzfe with trd superchargers into me and my cousin's 90 4runner automatics. also did some modifications to the original trannys. the other swap we just finished as in a older truck with manual transmission and supercharger.

use the 3.0 oil pan. make sure you get a 5vz block with the oil stick hole in the right spot, or you'll have to drill one out.

wiring was done manually, it took us about half a day to repin or cut and splice wires and solder them together. wiring is alittle harder for automatics because some speed sensors and other tranny wiring needs to be connected.

both of our TACHs work, we did a mod on the cluster to make it work correctly.

3.0 motormounts were used with some minor mods, redrilling a hole. AC compressor bracket was grinded down on one spot, so that it could fit.

my cousin's 4runner uses the cut out hood scoop from a 99 toyota hood. the pulley of the supercharger rubs alittle on the fiberglass scoop insert when the engine torques up. a 1" body lift will fix that problem.
my 4runner still has a hole in the hood. I have seen the IDM scoop you used on eBay. could you show me some pics of your hood? teamshiftpoint@ev1.net

get downey headers, they are about 270 shipped on performance products, get a muffler shop to make the crossover piping. I used the o2 bungs from the donor 99 exhuast and placed one before and one after the CAT.

the only thing I would get from ORS is their hood scoop and template, only cause I havent found a scoop that works yet.
does anyone have a picture of their scoop? I dont want any big cowl looking scoop, just something small like the original toyota scoop hoods on the 99 runners.

to me their wiring is too expensive, and their conversion kit includes some stuff that is not needed, or can be taken from the old 3.0

they will work if you do the wiring correctly. I know first hand it works, cause we had a bad o2 sensor, and got the CEL. we just plugged up the obd2 reader and checked out the code, fixed the problem and cleared it.

you can also connect in an OBD2 plug to the wiring also. so you can get diagonistic codes easily.

so what plugs need to be changed on the harness? do each of the plugs have the same ammount of wires coming from them so its just a cut and solder? are the wire colors the same? what should i do about the tach?
Thanks

Here's the dealio- The 5VZFE harness is not long enough to reach the spot where your factory ECU was mounted. You could get away with this by mounting it above the glovebox but I chose to extend the 4 sets of plugs going from engine to ECU and ECU to body so it could be mounted in the factory spot. The original body plugs will be graphed onto the harness assy and you will need to run several additional wires to the body. Your current configuration has only one O2 sensor, the new will have 2 or 1 and an Air/Fuel ratio sensor. You will need to add this as well as the 4 wires for the OBD2 port. You'll be using your check engine light also, the factory EWD's are pretty darn good (tell you what color) but I would still verify your connections with a DMM before soldering and shrinking. You need to be able to trace circuits through schematics to do this. If not, you're going to be learning this process on the fly!

Regarding the clutch- You won't do anything with the slave, use it just the way it is setup already. There's a bracket for the hose on the rear of the right cylinder head, just bend it a little and shim it and reuse it on the 5VZ.

ok sounds good, would anyone who can wire up lights or a computer, and has some elctronics knowlege wire this up? it doesnt sound to hard.
Thanks for all the help!!!

also i planned on using a hood scoop from a subaru wrk or a 3rd gen. 4runner instead of a 2in. body lift. but now that i thought about it more would a 1in. body lift and a hood scoop work well? i was thinking of the 1in. to give more clearence for the exhaust.
Thanks for the help!

TeamShiftPoint is correct.. The OBDII port can easily be used by adding on the diagnostic plug. I found that you can install an OBDII plug right above the hood latch pull and it looks like it was installed from the factory. Also, your check engine lamp will work just fine. The 5VZFE ECU provides a ground path to illuminate the lamp just like your 3VZ ECU. Again, you need to be comfortable with crunching through the wiring diagrams as you'll be building this sh*t from scratch.

Regarding your question about the plugs- You will be harvesting the plugs referred to as IH1 & IH2 in the 91 4Runner EWD. They will contain the speed sensor, check engine light, 4wd indicator, back up lights, starter signal, batt & ignition power, O2 sensor, etc.. Don't even try this without the correct EWD's. If you need to purchase them, call the Toyota Material Distribution Center @ (800) 622-2033 and get the 91 4Runner EWD and the XXXX Tacoma, 4Runner or T100 EWD. (XXXX represents the year of the donor motor)

Another note for your swap- Toyota changed the 3.4 setup somewhat in the 99 model year. They ran larger injectors and ditched the cumbersome MAF used previously along with the EGR system. Also, the earlier models 95 & 96 Taco & T100 had an ECU that wasn't capable of supporting the supercharger. However, the 96 4Runner was capable of supporting the supercharger. But, in order to take advantage of all the cool upgrades they made, you would ideally find a 2000 - 2001 Tacoma or 1999 to 2000 4Runner. To my knowledge, these are the ones that ran the larger injectors, no EGR and no drive by wire throttle system. I would avoid the drive by wire system as it would represent an additional pain in the as$ to wire. This is a fairly technical wiring project, if you're not down with it so far, I would call Mike at Offroad Solutions and get a price from him.

the wiring is long enough for the 90-95 4runners.
its just long enough to get the stock location. I just flipped the ecu upside down, so the plugs are on top, then everything can plug in.