Well I was able to replace the starter and get the heck out of the sand!
I actually followed the manuals directions and removed the crossbar (big mistake) and most of the exhaust. The starter took abouit 10 min to swap out where as most time was spent putting the exhaust/crossmember back together. As I wrenched on the last bolt, I reckoned I could have done it without removing anything, although it was a bit easier.

Now, on to repacking the bearings and replacing the boots. . . .

//dx <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/cheers.gif" alt="" />