>>>*Well, I will stick to the basics, and assume the systems are all working.
Now first, let's understand that it is possible to make an infinite number of cam grinds, all different, with the exact same "specs". This is because the actual lobe timing matters, lift and duration are almost completely meaningless.
We can actually change how much the valve is open at partial lift, without changing the total lift or duration, so that becomes a partial lift change, and we have a completely different profile.
Then add in that this one change, by it's nature, flows into the next nanosecond of the cycle, (otherwise it makes loud noises and breaks stuff...) and we end up with a massively different camshaft. *Yep, same lift and duration...(I am giving up some "almost" secrets here....*LOL**)
Manufacturers give that total lift/duration spec for a comparison, it means small, medium, and large, and versions of each..Yes, they sell what sells, not necesarily what works best...
So going by the basic assumption that all systems are working and properly set, I say your camshaft is running late. The reason I say this is because almost ALL small companies use a single lobe grinder. To save base circle, they set up an indicator and "feel" for the point of maximum lift.
(Of course, on a Toyota, the point of max lift isn't where one thinks it is.)
So to do it right, the camshaft MUST be indexed off the dowel pin..Hopefully THAT is in the right place, I have one on my desk that is 120? off...just to remind me to check, check again, and recheck...human beings make this stuff, you see..
*Now THAT means that when working with brand new cam grinds, we get to throw away one out of 20, because they can't be ground to spec at all. *You don't think a new cam, a casting, is actually straight, do you?...*LOL**..
Hold on, it gets worse..The temptation for the grinder is to save that $50 new core, and move the cam a little, setup @ say, somewhere around 1? to 3?. If all is new, not a big problem, moves the powerband a few hundred RPM..
*One can have a lot of fun with a Buddy by moving a couple of things when he isn't looking, and we turn his "Kicks him right in the Hanes @ 3000 RPM" into a "Starts and never stops pulling"..*Drives them nuts, they know darn good and well everything is the same...*LOL** (Hi Darin..heehee)
Shave the head/block, stick on a cam that is already 2? late, and OOPS! Been there, done that and learned from it...*LOL**..
The result is poor performance, a fairly smooth running engine, but no power, lousy gas mileage, and irritation because of all the work and hardearned gone and no result.
Really maddening because it "sounds" nice and throaty, (burning gasses going poppoppop in the manifold, released out of time...)
A late cam doesn't get the cylinder filled properly, (well it does OK at crank speed, but not running)...*Time and mass and velocity get involved and I have to start thinking so don't ask, just know it's true..
A late cam also dumps the burning gasses out the exhaust, if it is WAY too late, the thing might even glow, but if it is WAY rich, it will just run poorly.
The 02 senser reads that as extra Oxygen, and thinks you are lean, so it richens the mixture. Then to keep from setting off that check engine light, the computer will move timing to the best EMISSIONS position, and it doesn't care about power..
To make it shorter, I will bet a stale can of Bud that if I was to send you an advanced crank gear, the thing will wake up some..and maybe a BUNCH!
*Free if you want to do a test, email me...
*Messing with the AFM is called a screwup...*LOL**..(.*Sorry.)...*EB