I'm not sure if the wire means you have ABS.

My power steering leak just got worse tonight! On my way home from work, my steering became a little stiff. I soon discovered that the seal at the bottom of the gear box finally gave out all-together and emptied the power steering fluid all over my tire and wheel well <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/barf.gif" alt="" />.

Oh well, I allready bought that seal a while back(this incident wasn't without warning <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif" alt="" />). Looks like I'll be doing that and my master cylinder this weekend <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif" alt="" />.

I found a garage that did the brakes for a few hundred less than the Midas estimate. Picked up the truck today and boy does it feel good to not have to drive around with an automatic emergency brake locked on the front wheels. The mechanic said the ABS was a rear-only system activated by a lever to prevent locking up when the load on the rear axle is lightened. Still no clue on what, if anything, the 'un-lock' button is for. I'm replacing the P/S and serpentine belts tomorrow.

Too bad about your truck- is it getting cold feet before the pipeline run? How much damage can you do to the P/S system by running it low on fluid? At least you have a backup vehicle...

Nope, what he is describing is a proportioning valve that adjusts the rear bias according to how far the suspension is loaded down. I did away with mine because it no longer functioned and I didn't like the idea of three brakelines running to the rear when only one is needed. I replaced it with a manual proportioning valve in the engine compartment.


Probably alot. I've always managed to keep it topped off pretty well. I don't have a backup vehicle either <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif" alt="" />. The other truck in my sig. is sitting in heated storage right now with the front leaf springs pulled out. That truck's my baby <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/baby.gif" alt="" /> <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif" alt="" />.

The "unlock" rocker switch to the left of the steering wheel is the clutch interlock switch. Normally, the truck cannot be started without the clutch pedal depressed. But sometimes in off-road situations, it is useful to start the truck in gear in low range. For example, if you are stalled on a steep hill, much easier to put the trans in first (low range) and turn the key. The truck will start and motor up the hill, all in one process. So, if you want to do that, hit the unlock rocker switch to allow the truck to start without the clutch pedal down.

I don't like safety crap like that so I disconnected mine. Now it will start in gear whenever I want without the switch.

It would appear that your truck is one of the later ones with the rear ABS. The ABS is unrelated to the load proportioning valve as already mentioned by Nathan.

If you don't live around hilly terrain, the 4.22 gears are OK for 31s, but 4.62 gears put gearing with 31s back to the exact same as 4.22s with 28 inch tires (stock size). Way better acceleration and better mileage. You can burn your tires in the fisrt two gears nicely with the stock gearing.

I'm using 4.62s with 32" tires and get 20 mpg regardless of driving technique. I would like to go to 34s with 5.29s. I wish the 4.88 ratio was available for the 8" front diff, as it would be better than the 5.29s for use with 33s.

Don't sell that truck. The V6 pickup (either Mighty Max or D50, they are identical) is very rare and an awesome truck. You won't find a better, stronger small 4x4 pickup than that. Far better than any comparable toyota or nissan. You are now among the elite, get that thing dialed in and keep it for the rest of its useful life.

By rear bias, do you mean the amount of brake pressure applied to the rear vs. front brakes? This sounds like what the mechanic was describing, I just thought it sounded like a primitive, mechanical system to prevent rear wheel lockup. Would this respond to the transfer of mass to the front of the vehicle while braking, or does it just deal with cargo load? Is this what the wires out of the differential are for, or would they be for a true ABS?

It sounds like you plan to do the P/S seal yourself. How long will it take?

Sounds like the ABS is a separate system.

Not sure, it might work for both, but I think it's mainly for load.


<img src="/forums/images/graemlins/lol.gif" alt="" /> <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/lol.gif" alt="" /> I just tried it this morning <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif" alt="" />. It's gonna involve removing the whole steering box. I tried doing it with the box on the vehicle, but quickly decided that wasn't going to work, there's no room to pull the vertical shaft out the top. I checked out the service manual and it definately looks doable. I'll wait for another day to give it a shot <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif" alt="" />. I'm just carrying a gallon of fluid with me until then <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/shame.gif" alt="" />.

It's on the right side for me, but: Bingo! I went out and tried it this afternoon. I wouldn't have thought the starter could provide enough torque to kick it up the hill I park on (much less overcome the parking brake =8-] ) and keep the engine running, but it did. Thanks for finally clearing that up cragdweller


I'm glad to hear that, but I'd also like a vehicle I can do the routine maintenance on. I'm trying to swap in new drive belts today, but I can't get either one off.

On the serpentine, I have the tension pulley adjustor bolt finger loose (had to turn it clockwise to loosen <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif" alt="" />), but the pulley itself won't budge. I looked for a seperate lock bolt, sprayed everyting I could reach with liquid wrench, and pounded and pried the pulley from every angle I could get at. It won't move enought to let the belt loose.

On the powersteering belt, I sprayed, banged, and cranked on the bolt that looks like it slides in the bracket. I can just barely get at it from the side with an open-ended wrench, but it feels like it is going to strip before budging. The bolt is actually behind and inside the diameter of the pulley itself. There are two cut-out holes in the pulley that look like they might line up with the bolt and accept a socket, which would even give me a few inches of space to put some leverage on the wrench, but thats not how they stopped now. Do I need to keep starting and stopping until the hole lines up, or can this be manually adjusted somehow(it won't budge just turning the pulley with my hand)? Am I replacing a simple engine component, or installing an interruptor switch to fire a machine gun through the propeller of my Sopwith Camel <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/rolleyes.gif" alt="" />?

I'm using a Haynes manual and it only gives general information on these parts. Would the official service manual give better specifics? All the parts I'm working with are tightly packed and hidden behind mounting brackets and hoses. I can't even get a finger in to feel what the adjuster bolt is connected to. I'm not very experienced with this kind of mechanical work, but I did replace the waterpump in an old Camaro using a Haynes manual, and had no problems.

Ok, I managed to figure it all out. That ignition switch already came in handy- I had to turn over the engine 5 or six times to get the holes in the P/S pulley to line up with the bolt, but I didn't have to get in the car. The Haynes manual was pretty useless, neither of the lockbolts were in places they mentioned (one _behind_ the P/S, the other on the _axle_ of the tension pulley). Can anyone give me an idea of how much the factory manual would run? I don't see any currently on ebay. Are they year and model specific?

One more question: It seems like common sense that it's a bad idea to be spraying liquid wrench all over the drive belt system. Is there any reason not to use anti-sieze lubricant on the bolts now? Either the dealer that did the work last time didn't use any, or the stuff didn't last 30k miles.

Loosen the bolt in the center of the pulley.



There is one bolt on the back side of the power steering pump.



Yes. Throw away the Haynes manual. It's next to worthless.



I've seen them anywhere from $20 to $40. They are year/model specific. Look for the Mitsubishi or Dodge manual. 1992 Mitsubishi Truck Service Manual NEW



It's probably not a good idea. Belts tend to deteriorate when coated with petrolium products.

Suggestion: Create a new topic for new questions. It helps folks doing a search. It helps folks that don't have the time to read every line of every topic.