The plenum valves rotate at around 3000 rpm, allowing intake air to dive directly to the intake valves, taking the shortest route. Below this rpm, the intake air is pulled through the entire length of the intake plenum, boosting intake velocity and low rpm torque. If you unplug the diaphragm, the valves will always be in the position for low rpm operation, not allowing the enhanced breathing at high rpm.
Bringing this back up, as I'm researching my next project.
There's a misstatement above. If the vacuum actuator for the two stage plenum on a 3.5 DOHC is disconnected, it allows the butterfly valve to remain open, allowing most of the intake air to use the shorter "high-speed" runners, meant for high RPM use. Engine vacuum closes the butterfly and makes the intake air travel through the longer runners, enhancing torque at sub-3000 RPM's.
If disabled by simply disconnecting the vacuum actuator, or if simply left in place in a worn state, unfiltered, unmetered air will enter the intake manifold at the point where the shaft that the butterfly valves attach to passes through the lower plenum to connect to the vacuum actuator linkage (which answers the last post above).
If the lower plenum is/is not disconnected, but left in place in a "worn bushings" state, the possibility of rattled-loose parts attached to the shaft, or parts of the bushings the shaft is mounted in, can come loose and be ingested through the intake.
In any case, the suitable repair is:
A) Remove the butterfly valves, shaft and bushings from the inside of the lower plenum and plug the hole where the shaft exits the plenum at the front. This disables the system and allows most of the intake air to travel the path of least resistance through the shorter, high-speed runners, although a little air will still probably travel through the low speed, long-length runners.
or
B) Replace the plenum with the updated part (cost as of Aug 2011 is around $420, shipped from Mitsubishiparts.net). You'll also need to spring for a bunch of gaskets.
or
C) Repair the old plenum by making/finding new bushings for the shaft to ride on. This involves trust in whoever/however the repairs are done. The more I think about this option, the more it makes me uneasy.
I think all three options mean you're going to have to take it all apart, even option A. And, if you go that far, you should be replacing the plugs and wires and testing the coils at least. Might be a good time to replace those evil heater hoses at the firewall, too, just to add to the list.
Mine was disabled by option A before I or Monte3 owned the truck, I believe. I am considering restoring it and have been given a used plenum by RyanY.
I think Ray (off-roader) replaced his recently. If that's the case, what are the impressions?
Anybody have any other ideas to add? I know this is old, but it's what came up when I searched.
John B.