I am in the process of doing my homework for a cylinder head replacement for my Raider. I want to get a parts and tool list before I start. So, can someone give me a complete list of what parts and special tools I need. I have basic mechanic hand tools and am planning on a head from Clearwater. What gaskets, bolts, parts and other odds and ends do I need.

DJ <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/pfft.gif" alt="" />

Do a quick search if you haven't done so already. Many others have done the replacement and documented it.

If anything, you will know who to directly ask.

Based on my understanding, not only do you want to change the head but you'll also want to check and as necessary rebuild your cooling system as head problems are typically the result of a faulty cooling system.

Ray

Here's what I remember - others will chime in. I assume it's a 2.6 4cyl?

Sockets: (3/8" drive unless noted
12mm
13mm (in case somebody used aftermarket nuts/bolts
14mm
17mm (1/2" drive for head bolts - you need the torque to break them loose)

Wrenches:
same sizes

Misc. tools:
1/2" drive torque wrench
3/8" drive ratchet
drivers for hose clamps as needed
pliers for hose clamps
12mm x 1.25mm bottoming tap or thread chaser for head bolt holes in block
12mm x 1.25mm die for head bolt threads (or wire brush on drill motor)
scraper for removal of gasket from block/manifolds

Parts/supplies:
Felpro head gasket set - I recommend the one for 89 Starion for the best head gasket (felpro 9315 or 9316, I think)
Mitsu self locking manifold nuts
hitemp RTV (orange)

Procedure:
drain radiator and block (remove upper and lower rad. hoses)
remove valve cover and air cleaner
set engine to TDC on #1 cylinder (mark on pulley at 0 on scale on timing cover, both #1 valves closed)
remove/label all hoses/wires and where they go
remove dizzy cap and dizzy
disconnect exhaust just below manifold
disconnect fuel lines (careful!)
remove bolt holding on the camshaft sprocket, after making SURE the little metal shelf is there below the sprocket and not bent down at all
remove fuel pump
remove all 17mm head bolts and the (2) 12mm at the front of the head
rap manifold with a soft face hammer to break loose head gasket seal
with help of assistant, remove head with manifolds attached
swap manifolds & stuff to new head - use assembly lube on cam bearings/faces of lobes
clean out head bolt holes with tap, and clean head bolts
clean off ALL old gasket material from block and clean gasket surfaces on head/block with acetone
check that timing cover gaskets do not protrude above block deck, and trim off with razor if they do
put light smear of rtv across top of timing cover/block joint and apply head gasket to block DRY
with assistant, CAREFULLY set head on block, making SURE you set it on the front/rear dowels, and do not bump the gasket!
use torque wrench to install head bolts (lightly lube the bolts with 3in1 or equal)
install cam sprocket
align marks on bottom of dizzy case shaft, and with hold down stud in center of dizzy case slot, insert dizzy in head, allowing shaft to tourn only after gears start to engage - rotor should end up aligned with #1 spark plug wire on cap.
install all the other stuff

Happy wrenching!

(Gawd I hate myself for doing this but can't resist...)

Hey FastEddy, pretty good for 'off the top of your head'

<img src="/forums/images/graemlins/evil.gif" alt="" /> <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/cheers.gif" alt="" />

Been there a couple of times, and I bet I've got several more to do, too.

Yes very nice indeed, the Felpro head gasket is a 9116PT.

Thanks! Don't know why I can never remember that number...

Did forget something. When reinstalling valve cover, put a dab of RTV at the "right angle" at the back of the head where the valve cover gasket starts over the rear cam bearing, and a LIGHT smear at the rear edge of rear cam bearing to head joint. Replace dizzy o-ring, too!

I either read, or was told, that you need to replace the head bolts on the 2.6L engine. My 2.6L was blown, and my rig is sitting there, waiting for me to find a garage and decide whether to install a 4.3L, so can't tell you from experience about the head bolts.

Also seems as if a number of our forum members recommend using studs, but I haven't paid much attention to the threads that address this issue. Do a search, should find comments in the last month.

Good luck with your head replacement. Those Clearwater replacements (new casting without the jet valves) get good marks on this forum.

Summit sells the ARP's for $90, I paid $150 from TEP and got ripped.
Hey NW have you been to that 3d range out past Brier, WA?

I can't believe we dont have a write-up for the 2.6 head job. It's the most common repair. Maybe I'll see if I can throw something together with FastEddy's instructions and some pictures I have from my last rebuild.



mods for valve cover gasket if you use the ARP head studs (which I personally recommend)


also, Clearwater was supposed to fix this but you might get a head that the fuel pump lever arm will rub against part of the head. If this happens you'll need to dremel away some aluminum and then do some seriously good cleanup. It might be worth your time to work up some kind of masking and cover the rest of the head with plastic.