Thanks man! <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/cheers.gif" alt="" />

I sent an email to the company to find out where I can find it in the Atlanta area, if at all. I don't mean to be a pain-- wait a sec, yes I do-- where did your friend get it from? You said he has a "shop", so I'm assuming that's where you did your engine work, which by my deductions means it's an automotive shop-- which would lead me to conclude that he bought from some type of distributor. Or I could just be full of poopie, but I wonder if it's any kind of distributor or retailer that might be accessible here. I'm kind of curious to see what I find out from this company-- it's called Maple Leaf Associates. I read this on their site: "All of our products may be privately labeled with your name and logo. Please call for information." I wonder if there's any of that going on. If I relabeled Alumi-Brite and decided to sell it, I would market it under this name: Moon Shine <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/butwiggle.gif" alt="" />!!!! <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/lol.gif" alt="" />

He is the Diesel Truck and Bus instructor for the local Vo-Tech. Did the work at the school on the weekends, with the 4Runner in the yard during the week.

He gets the stuff through the school board's supply system, I think. I can ask, but it might be a couple of days, as I have to work a job fair tomorrow.

No worries. If you do, that's fine. If not, that's fine also. Otherwise I will see what happens with the email I put in to this company. Thanks! <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/cheers.gif" alt="" />

Found another link that should help you... Looks like the bottle, too! <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/kewl.gif" alt="" />

Just got an email back from the company, and they said this product has bee discontinued. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif" alt="" /> My thinking is-- take it off yer website then! Oh well.

In the other link you posted, it looks like Alumi-Brite regular-- do you think it would work?

I found an automotive machine shop that was recommended to me that would clean the head, pressure test it, and resurface it for $75. It's very tempting instead of sitting here all weekend trying to get it perfectly clean. I'm thinking the resurfacing might be a good idea anyways-- just to be sure because I don't know what kind of heat this thing may have been subjected to. CouldÆve been under a lot of heat and that may be what destroyed the cam before I got it. Taking a little bit of material off shouldnÆt have an effect on the timing chain or anything. What is an acceptable amount for cleanup: 0.020ö (0.5mm)? IÆm an engineer in manufacturing and 0.5mm is a lot to me! <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/baby.gif" alt="" />

Lemme think what you knowà I mean, uhà Let me know what you think.

The price is right....

I think you should avoid cutting unless necessary. Every time these heads need to be repaired or get warped, they get cut. After a few cuts, you need an adjustable cam gear to correct the timing.

Speaking of repair, I would inspect the water ports and look for corrosion leading to the fire ring (common enough problem that you ought to inspect.) EZ fix for your machine shop- 15 minutes and a nice TIG weld, then mill it.

For decarbonizing, try some Castrol Purple cleaner or use a wire wheel.

You can inspect your own head for warpage with a straightedge and a feeler gauge.

As for techical specs, I'm gonna refer you to EB because I don't want to give you the wrong info by mistake.

As a matter of fact, EB is the one you should point your entire question to.

Take it in. Sounds like the price is perfect, plus it'll save you a mountain of time. Nice to be sure of what you are bolting back on the block as well. Rule of thumb...never exceed .020. After that you get the pleasure of spacers or thicker gaskets....although the new adjustable timing gears EB has will also correct for shaved head syndrome. Restores the cam timing so there aint any funny conditions that you must account for when tuning. Thats what I think! Dont like it...then tough solid farts-you asked man....LOL
~Darin <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/baby.gif" alt="" />

Mr. Bill the Cat-- I was cleaning the block deck this weekend, and it seems to me that the surface of the deck may have some corrosion on there. At first I thought it was just old gasket material, so I was carefully trying to scrape it off then brush it off, and it doesn't want to go away. I ran my fingernail across it, and it sorta seems like it could be the corrosion you were talking about. It's not in the areas around the cylinders or between them, just more on the outer edges of the block deck-- like around the head bolts and coolant passages etc. Is this a problem? What might be the best solution to make this thing perfectly flat and clean, short of yanking the engine? Would a large, flat, fine honing stone and some WD-40 do it?

Well, Im no expert by far....but have played one on TV. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/coolg.gif" alt="" /> Seriously, send EB an email, let him know whatchya got going on and hopefully he will have a painless cure for you. Heck...thats exactly what Id be doing. LOL Whenever a bigass ? pops into my head, I pick up the phone or send EB an email and he puts my mind at ease. Well that or makes me change my undershorts...either way- get a pros opinion Jeremy.
~Darin <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/baby.gif" alt="" />