You may be right Gary. It depends how much leeway is built into the ECM map. As long as you stay within the map it would work. Once outside it then the CEL comes on.

jeez, a hundred posts in one thread? this has got to be a new record in the Kia forums!

i have read everything past the first page and so far, i like what i see. i am going to do this later this afternoon and see what happens. for the record, i have never heard of anything like this before, never, and i have never had my IAC replaced or repaired for any reason.

thanks for the footwork, guys.

It is a new record. I went back and looked. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/lol.gif" alt="" />

alright guys, we're getting somewhere, someone with and OBD-II figure this one out for the rest of us. i want to get rid of my rev limiter too! and more power is always good. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/evil.gif" alt="" />

Is the "RPM hold" being discussed really the same as the Rev Limiter? I don't see how the IAC valve could control max RPMs... that is usually done with the ECU.

I would have posted this a lot earlier but I had a commitment to deal with. So, here's the results of my "dead cold" start:
8:00am, 31 degrees. The engine fired up just as soon as it always had, but the idle was a little lumpy, struggling, which disappeared the instant I applied a tiny bit of throttle. So then I hold the throttle open just a crack - just open enough to keep the idle steady. I did that for 30 seconds or so, then I let it idle without my help. Perfect. Smooth, low, and really quiet. Just needs the smallest warming-up period. I can deal with that.

then why is the damn thing even there to begin with?

31 degrees F is kids stuff. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif" alt="" /> I'd like to see what happens when it was -17 degrees F two weeks ago here. I can pretty much guarantee she would stall...several times...and probably kill the battery in the process. And in temperatures of that extreme an extended warm up, unattended, is pretty much required unless you want to sit there freezing while you goose the gas to keep it running. Not this boy. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/lol.gif" alt="" />

Dave, to answer your question...that's why the IAC is there. It allows the engine to idle under all extremes. I think what this comes down to is that the old style IAC was trouble prone. Which is why we see a different type on later models. Unless someone wants to try this on the newer IAC I personally see no benefit. In fact, I see a regression because now you have a modern fuel injected vehicle stumbling and hesitating. I gave up that crap years ago when carburetors went bye-bye...as they should have.

Yep, 31 degrees is rediculous. But that's how it goes out here.
Too bad the part isn't smart enough to shut itself off after the engine gets warm, because it really runs better without it. Wait a sec, someone mentioned a switch . . . yes, I'm getting an idea here. Make a driver-controlled switch for the thing, take out the CEL bulb in the dash, and there you go.
Not to spin off topic or anything, but there used to be talk of an electric radiator fan that did away with the power robbing clutch. I think someone once said you could get 10 more horsepower from this mod. Is this worth looking into?

ok, reguardless of what climate you live in or what part of the country ..... How the hell can a dealer say " Just take it out" I mean people do travle. If I live in a warm climate I may have to drive to a cold climate and spend a few weeks, right. So, I'm wondering if this has to do with climate at all. Anyone.