Today I went to a Kia shop to try to discuss about the IAC valve disconnection. The "master mechanic" was pretty busy and couldn't give me proper attention, but told me to go ahead with the disconnection that I would definitivelly gain some HP. Just don't know how much. He suggested me to add a switch to the valvle, just like I wondered the other day. That's what I'm going to do, but I don't have that much skills on eletrical parts, and I think that it's not just a matter of adding a on/off switch, I'll need a relay, correct?

CBP, the Kia mech seems to confirm what I said at the start of this thread, and that they knew all along this particular IAC for our model sporties was a not a good design and that's why it was further modified for later engines. Having said that it is still true that those in real cold climates probably still need it just to get started in the morning. An in/off switch would be useful there as it could be turned off once the engine was warmed. It shouldn't be too hard for someone with the knowledge to run a cutoff switch from that IAC connector wire into your dash area.....

Thinking about why you would bother with it at all since you and I are in a similar climate -but, yes, I guess it might be useful just for quicker ignition, if that's a factor. I think I will do it too if I am staying here another year. But I may be in Japan or Thailand and I'd have to sell the sport -it's all right hand drive there. I may just be on my motorcycle for awhile....

I DO have to crank it 2 or 3 times first, which I don't like. Not sure what the problem is -fuel? air?

99% of the stumbling is gone as Kia adjusted the mixture -she idles smoothly. It's just the morning startup......

Just something to add: I've been switching my A/C on and off full blast over the last couple of days and sometimes I've felt a tiny stumble. Nothing major, but I went ahead and raised my idle back to 1,000 RPM (from 750 or so) and that took care of everything. PLUS, doing that has helped big time in the morning startup. I no longer have to crack the throttle at all to get it going. . .

Pray tell, how did you adjust the idle? Don't tell me. You adjusted the throttle stop screw on the throttle body? Am I right? <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif" alt="" />

Be careful with that. It is NOT supposed to be "field adjusted". It is preset when the throttle body is assembled and tested. And on the other side of that throttle shaft is the TPS. You run the danger of really screwing up readings from the TPS to the ECM. And if you have an automatic you have an additional risk of improper shift points plus additional braking effort to get the vehicle to stop because the idle is too high.

Tsk, tsk, tsk. Axe, I've been fiddling with the idle ever since I drove it off the lot 8 years ago, just to see what it did.
Yes, it was pre-set, but it was done with some sticky, glue-like white stuff over the threads of the set screw.
I understand what you're saying and I wouldn't ever touch something like that, but for whatever reason, on my '96 my idle adjustment is just like playing with a Tecumseh. Go figure.
But thanks for getting that out there. I'd hate for anyone's Sportage to go belly-up from this.

And that throttle set screw seems EXACTLY like a Tecumseh on my engine. There are two throttle cams on my intake, and hand-manipulating the one that controls the idle seems purely mechanical. In that sense I don't see how tweaking the set screw has anything to do with the TPS, unless the engine mapping reads solely off the idle setting. Doesn't the computer read TPS vs. air velocity for its maps?

You can monkey around with this throttle stop on a manual tranny vehicle and probably get away with it. But I would caution anyone with an automatic to refrain from doing this.

There is an A/T cable from the bellcrank on the throttle body to the transmission. It's purpose is to help control and set shift points based upon throttle position. You run the risk of screwing up the shift points plus, in theory, damaging the transmission. Just something to be aware of. Nothing is ever simple. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/rolleyes.gif" alt="" />

That seems pretty advanced; even for the Sportage. Are the maps linked to the auto's shift points due to fuel economy or something? That makes sense in today's world, and I can see now why messing with the idle would be terrible on an auto, but I always thought the torque converter was responsible for deciding when to shift. What's up?

Sorry to revive an old thread, but an idea occurs to me...

I already have a thermostat that controls my electrical radiator fan... What if I wired it up such that when the engine gets warmed up to operating temps, instead of just switching on the fan relay, it also swithes on a second relay that is wired to bypass the B+ leg of the IAC connector? This way the IAC will be there to help assist with cold starts, but once the engine is warm it will turn it off, giving better throttle response and no RPM hold.

On my Sportage the RPM hold is incredibly annoying and drives me crazy when the AC is on.

thank U for getting back this old thread... i learn with it.

I will check in my sporty 97.. where the IAC .... i know its OBDI .......

Could someone send me the pics.... someones didnt display... [email]vaxxio@yahoo.com.[/email]

Thank U in advance