88 trooper with the 4ZE1 (2.6L).
Trying to help a buddy do a couple of things such as head gasket, timing belt, and front main seal.

I've broken 2 1/2in torque wrenches, a 24 mm socket, a braker bar, and a few other tools..

Did isuzu locktight the crank pulley bolt in there? Are we talking need a torch here?

I'm using a 24mm impact socket now, but it's not a deep socket and my 1.5 in extensions keep breaking. I'm putting major amounts of force on this bolt. Is there some secret to getting it out? The crank is being held by a chain wrench on the pulley and is not slipping.

I'll probably go to tractor supply tomorrow see if they have something in 3/4 in wrench style.. This is nutty.

I've read posts about putting a wrench in there and hitting the starter. I've had limited success with that on Toyota 22R motors and think it's a good way to tear up that crank pulley bolt.. I'm willing to try it if I get enough feedback. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/angry.gif" alt="" /> <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif" alt="" />

I've worked on a lot of OHV motors and this thing is a @#$#@$

Just did the bump-the-starter thing on my 2.6 and it popped like a breeze.

As long as you have the breaker bar properly braced against the steering box/frame as suitable, and the socket positioned firmly on the bolt, there should be no issues. It only takes the slightest amount of jogging with the starter to bust this bolt loose.

HTH and Have Fun...........ed

How do you hold it in place to torque it down when you put it back together?
Jim

I have had to disassemble and reassemble mine a couple of times now, and the crank bolt is always a bear. Since I had a balancer slip (crank bolt came loose <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/angry.gif" alt="" />) I even put a little thread locker on there now. Even before, I would heat the bolt with a propane torch (the bolt does not have to be that hot to break down the thread locker, assuming a normal removable strength thread locker was used). Be careful to not put too much heat on the balancer, you could damage the rubber between the two pieces. The first bolt I pulled looked like it had thread locker on it, but it was not factory 'suzu, it was a rebuilt engine. Now I have to pull it again, it looks like the front main is leaking again, after only one year, it might be time to look into a speedy sleeve for the front main. I heat the bolt and use my impact gun and I have not had a problem getting it apart. Reassembly consists of removable strength thread locker and the impact gun, then a breaker bar with a long cheater to finish the job. As I recall Isuzu specifies something like 240 lb-ft of torque on that bolt.

it's like 87-98 ft.-lbs., more than enough to twist and break a socket extension. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif" alt="" />
i got mine off by slipping a 4' piece of galvanized pipe over my breaker bar for leverage. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/mrt.gif" alt="" />
i guess some people have found the pulley itself to be a beeatch (sp?) to remove, but mine came off by hand after a dowsing with PB Blaster. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/nana.gif" alt="" />
good luck <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/kewl.gif" alt="" />

if it's a manual, put it in 5th and set the parking break/block the wheels. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/coolg.gif" alt="" />

It SHOULD be easy to remove the bolt if you use the starter. Just put the socket on the end of a breaker bar and brace it against the frame. Tap the starter and it should be loose. If not tap it again until it does come loose. Make sure to use the correct size socket and at least 1/2 inch drive and to properly brace the breaker bar or some bad things could happen. To tighten it, I've always just tightened it as much as possible without ever putting a torque wrench on it. If you look at the way it is designed, as the motor normally spins, it will actually tighten the bolt. So, as long as you get it tight from the start, the motor will make sure it stays tight.

Richard

Sacromentophil, are you sure it is only 87-98 ft-lbs? I didn't look at my manual, I only recall that the spec was astronomical. 87-98 is more in the range for a 1/2-9/16" bolt. I could have sworn that it was higher than that. I could be wrong, but 87-98 just doesn't seem tight enough. 87-98 ft-lbs is pretty easy to obtain with a half inch breaker bar, and most 1/2" impact guns put out at least twice that amount of torque. I will have to double check my manual, but I swore it was higher than that, if I am wrong, I guess I will eat a nice big helping of crow for dinner.

Don't know what the torque spec is - but I had to finally bring mine to a shop, where they broke 2 HD sockets on the thing. They finally used some fancy gear on it- which told them it was over 200 before it finally came loose.

Helm manual states 86.7 ft-lbs for the pulley bolt.