it can.

It can, & with no problems at all. In fact if you dont retain the pully, the belt roughting would have to be re-configured, and a way smaller belt would be required.

Providing you find the right belt, is that bad?

no.

Dynatrax has been ordered. Arrival date approx. 3 weeks.
CFM=2400
Current = 13A.
Cost = About 230-250 euro
Additional features- water sensing for crossing rivers, ( not me - additional cost)
3-way switcher always on-auto-always off
Comments?

Looks like I got in on this thread late, but I wanted to chime in because I HAVE done this mod to my Sportage! It worked great for me!

The way I did it is probably the simplest, easiest, fastest way. I did not have to remove the fan pulley and change belts or any of that. What I did is I removed the original fan and clutch, then I just screwed the nuts that hold it on back on their studs to keep the pulley on. Then I removed the fan shroud and discarded it. I then bought a 16" electric puller fan from Autozone (it was the biggest size they had). There was barely room for it to mount behind the radiator, what with the pulley and all, but there is room. There is like no room to spare but it fits.

I used the included through-the-radiator-core mounting straps, which some people say can make your radiator leak, but in my case it has been this way a couple years with zero leaks. It probably depends on what condition your radiator is in. I found the easiest way was to remove my radiator, mount the fan onto it really tight and secure, then drop the radiator and fan back in as once piece.

I wired it up with a relay and a thermostat. Later I also wired it such that it could only be turned on by the thermostat IF the ignition was on. That was a little more tricky as it involved running a wire to the ignition switch, but if you don't do something like this, the fan will stay on after you turn off your engine if radiator is still hot, and this can be a bad thing if your battery is low.

I also wired in a switch inside the cabin that lets me shut off the fan if I am fording deep water, and I have used this feature several times. I don't know if you guys cross much water, but it can be crappy when your fan is splashing in the water. Also it would probably not be good for the electrical fan to get wet while running so I turn it off while crossing any deep water.

I will take pictures of my install if you want. Some people told me I should have kept the fan shroud, but there was no room and I couldn't think of a good way to make it all fit. With the large 16" electric fan mounted right against the radiator, I see no reason why you would need the shroud, it cools excellent the way it is.

I am extremely satisfied with the results. I think I have about 3 to 4 years on this electric $60 fan so far and it still works excellent. We get consistently 110+ F weather in the summers here and with the electrical fan I never ever overheat, whether I am sitting stopped or driving up a hill or whatever. I would venture to say it works better than the stock fan. Also it makes the engine sound SO much cooler. Instead of going WHOOSH! like an old pickup truck when you rev the hot engine, now it goes VROOM like a race car. It sounds sexy.

Just a warning, if you do this mod, make sure you have the fan spinning the right direction, i.e. the polarity on the fan. If you hook up the polarity wrong the fan will blow air forward into the radiator instead of pulling it back out of the radiator. What you want is for the fan to be behind the radiator pulling air from the radiator. If you hook up the fan polarity wrong, it can feel like the air is blowing out the back of the fan even though the fan is blowing the wrong way, probably because of turbulence, but you can tell if you have it right because the air flow coming out the back of the fan will feel a lot stronger when you hook it up the right way. I know this mistake can be a major problem because one time I messed with my fan wiring and accidentally reconnected the fan with the wrong polarity, and I thought it was right because I felt air coming out the back of the fan. I drove around with it like this for a couple months and the Sportage would start running too hot and almost overheat sometimes, seemingly randomly. When I realized I had the fan polarity wrong I fixed it and the problem dissapeared.

Anyways sorry if I rambled, this is just one of my favorite modifications I have done to my Sportage, probably because it was relatively easy, made a noticeable difference in horsepower especially at high RPM's, and just generally was a nice change.

Fantastic!!
Since you have it that long you are a valuable source of info!!!
1. Difference in torque? is it revving easier from say 2-2.5000 rpm?
2. Was it difficult to do? problems? How much expertise does it need? Spesial tools needed?
3. How long did it take you? I am skared of pulling the radiator out, so I am thinking of doing it the hard way!!!

4. Some photos might help.
5. What is the overall depth of your fan?

Sorry for this "iterogation" <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/kewl.gif" alt="" />

Haven't done the fan mod but in regards to pulling the radiator out, that will most likely be the easiest part of this operation. Drain and unhook the hoses, unbolt and lift.

Without any way of measuring, I can only tell you subjectively how it feels to me, but it seems to rev easier when the engine is hot than it did with the fan.



It wasn't very difficult but you'll need to know how to wire things up to your battery and such. Don't forget to use fuses but don't use small fuses, make sure you use one strong enough so it doesn't blow a fuse unless there is some horrible problem... See if a fuse blows for no reason, you are left with no fan and your car can overheat, so make sure if you do this mod that your wiring doesn't fail!

One thing I forgot to mention is that if you use a thermostat, you need to mount the temp sensor in a good place. It tells you to mount it on the outside of the radiator but that doesn't give you a very accurate reading. See you want the fan to turn on when the radiator water gets to a certain temperature, but if the thermometer is on the OUTSIDE of the radiator, you aren't really measuring the water temp directly. What I ended up doing was I had the temp sensor sit inside the top of the radiator. I had the sensor's wire go in under the radiator top hose. I got a new radiator top hose at the time too (I needed one anyway) and I found out through several frustrating days of tinkering that no amount of clamping the radiator hose harder would stop radiator water from leaking out the hose connection where the temp sensor wire was between the hose and the radiator hose connection. The way I finally sealed it was I put a bead of silicone adhesive on the wire and then put the radiator hose on, let the silicone dry, then clamped the hose. That sealed it up perfect. Next time I change my radiator hose I'll have to silicone it again but who cares, it is a quick fix.



Taking out the radiator is pretty easy, I wouldn't even do the job if removing the radiator is intimidating to you <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif" alt="" />. Plus you probably need to replace your rad hoses anyway, most people don't replace theirs often enough.

Since I used the through-the-core mounting kit, it wasn't even really possible to do without removing the radiator. If you use something else other than the through-the-core kit, you will probably not be able to fit the fan in there. I dunno, maybe you could fab up some steel or aluminum brackets to hold the fan on by mounting at the sides of the radiator having straps go from there to the fan... But whatever you do, you're gonna need the fan to sit right against the radiator in order to have room.



I don't know, probably 3 inches, I'll try to take some photos and measurements. It's just the cheap Autozone 16" fan, I believe the brand was Empirial and it came in a yellow box which included the through-the-core mounting kit. The thermostat you had to buy extra but Autozone also sold that.

"Without any way of measuring, I can only tell you subjectively how it feels to me, but it seems to rev easier when the engine is hot than it did with the fan."
Makes sence - the engine runs cooler now. + plus the weight of the fan is missing.

"Taking out the radiator is pretty easy, I wouldn't even do the job if removing the radiator is intimidating to you . Plus you probably need to replace your rad hoses anyway, most people don't replace theirs often enough."

If my wife sees that I am ripping the rad apart she will hang me from the roof <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif" alt="" /> <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif" alt="" /> <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif" alt="" /> <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif" alt="" /> Seriously now, would that mean that I have to remove the A/C rad. also??


"I used the through-the-core mounting kit, it wasn't even really possible to do without removing the radiator"

Actualy, the fan manufacturer say that for serius offroading you SHOULD NOT use the through-the-core mounting you may damage the fins