OK, got the trailing arms back now after getting them welded (pictures coming soon <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/cheers.gif" alt="" /> ). Tried briefly to put them on last night before I ran out of sunlight and found it difficult to get both bolt holes lined up just right.

Any tips on getting the trailing arms put back on the truck? Seems quite clear that you have to put the front of the trailing arm through its hole first, then line up the bolt holes near the axle. Doesn't seem quite that simple though.

Thanks,

Dave

I was able to get one bolt in each side then slid a crowbar through the other hole to line it up. I think I might have rigged some down force on the trailing arm using the hydraulic jack - wouldn't recommend that though. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/shiner.gif" alt="" />

Yep, they can be a little tough, but here's how I did it: Because the axle moves fore and aft, you can't just tighten the front before bolting up the back. You'll probably have to pull the axle into alignment with the front arm bolt.

First, clean the forward frame mounting area and spray it and the bushing necks with silicone (or use liquid detergent). Insert the front of the arm (with bushing installed) into the frame mount and install the bushing, washer and nut without the lockwasher on the forward side of the mount. Note that the washers install with the cup away from the bushing (reverse of a shock absorber bushing). Tighten it just enough so any movement won't strip the threads - maybe 2-3 turns.

Install the rear axle bolt first. You can line it up with a drift pin if necessary. Then install the forward axle bolt by using a prybar (I used a big screwdriver) between the arm and the mount (you'll have to poke around to find a pry point) for leverage. A drift pin might help again. While you have some leverage on it in the general location, work the bolt into position while moving the lever up and down so it lines up. If it goes halfway in and hangs up, tap it lightly while working the lever. You won't mess up the bolt threads if you go easy.

Tighten the axle bolts to about 160 ft/lbs. (I told you differently last 2 times, but was looking at the Haynes manual. The Mitsu manual calls for 137-159 ft/lbs). Now tighten the front frame nut enough to make room for the lockwasher, take the nut back off and install the lockwasher and nut and torque to 94-108 ft/lbs). As you tighten, make certain that the bushings are going in properly (lubricant helps).

Don't forget to install the brake line brackets on each side.

If you removed and reinstalled those bushings by yourself, you did a great job!

A little clarification:

Assuming you have both trailing arms off, don't tighten the front frame nut on the first one you install until you get the second one in place with a nut on the front and the axle bolts on both arms tight. The reason is if you tighten one side before getting the front frame nut on the other side, you will cock the axle and then have difficulty starting the nut on the other side. The ideal way is to torque the axle bolts on both sides and then alternately snug up one in the front and then the other in incremental steps i.e. 50/75/95/105 lbs. That way, you'll pull the axle into alignment evenly.

Probably a bit retentive, but that's just my engineering mentality and the way I do things. Do it right once (hopefully) and then you don't have to worry about it.

No. I thought the bushings were OK so I didn't mess with them. Have done everything else by myself though.

Thanks very much for the thorough description on how to get those back in place. It really helped a lot. Much better than Haynes which simply says "Installation is the reversal of removal" <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/rolleyes.gif" alt="" /> I've got one in but haven't yet tightened them up so I'll do as you recommend.

BTW, here is a picture of the arms after the welding



If you are ever in Phoenix let me know. I'll buy you a <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/cheers.gif" alt="" />

I had to replace quite a few missing bolts during my engine rebuild. What I found was that Mitsu had lots of their bolts custom made, and the majority have smaller heads than standard. Of course, you can do the majority of the work on my truck with 4 wrenches and sockets: 10mm, 12mm, 15mm, and 17mm. However, when I went to 'fill the missing holes', I found that most of the standard sizes had head sizes that were 2-3 mm larger than the standard Mitsu size (ie a 10x1.25 that had a 15mm head diameter was replaced with 10x1.25 that had a 17mm diameter head).
I think part of it was engineering design (makes them awfully easy to work on), and part of it was cost savings (save a pound of hardened steel per truck times 100,000, that's quite a bit of money).
But, a jump from 17mm to 24mm? No, they were just guessing and got it wrong. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/rolleyes.gif" alt="" />

My truck has plenty of 14mm. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/lol.gif" alt="" /> <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/notooth.gif" alt="" />

Oh, man! They screwed you! Now you have to go buy the oddball socket and oddball wrench that aren't included in any of the standard metric sets! Did you know that most places don't even stock bolts with 14mm heads! That's a special import item, and they don't always have it at the Mitsubishi warehouse. You should see if there's a recall to replace all those bolts with ones that have a 15mm head! You probably wouldn't have bought that truck, if you'd known, right! <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/bird.gif" alt="" />


I'm pretty sure I said the majority of the work with just those sizes... <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif" alt="" />

Not to hijack Mendel's post, but I'd have to agree with Sparkem on this one. The majority of bolts on my truck are either 10, 12, or 14mm I can't say I've ever run into a 15mm anywhere - never used that socket. I have a 14mm socket or wrench in every set I own and it's a good thing I do because I use them all the time.

Did you weld those, or did you bring them to a welder. They look well done.