Hey Mendel, how'd you bend the plate? Put it on the trailing arm and whack the !@#$ out of it? They look good.

I would have tacked it at the front of the flate, and right before the bend. Heat it with a torch cherry hot, and use a hammer to bend it. You would be tough pressed to bend that sucker without heating it first. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif" alt="" />

I took them to a welder. Also gave them the end of the broken one so they could see where they tend to break. Also gave them pictures I found here on the wire of other trailing arm weld jobs. Lastly, gave them $30 to do both. Can't beat that. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/kewl.gif" alt="" />

Thats a fair price for both parties. You should keep that guys number.

FrankR,

Check with these guys for the socket. They make all the Mitsu special tools.
Might be a lot cheaper than the stealer.

http://www.otctools.com/

OTC no longer makes the axle nut socket. It's now made by Miller Tools and sells for $89.95. I've ordered one, but they're on back-order until April 28th. Meanwhile a kind sold has taken pity and let me borrow his. Here's a number and contact at Miller if anyone wants the tool and doesn't mind waiting:

1-800-801-5420 - ask for Mark Patterson in Technical Support. They'll accept your credit card.

I'm assuming they were probably refering to the shaft of the bolt instead of the head. That is how bolts are normally sized. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif" alt="" />

I hope you do realize that is unescessary and a screw driver works fine? 89.00 is alot of cash for a gee whiz tool!

Maybe I've already got a bunch of replacement bolts... who knows? I was working on my truck today and used a 14 on several bolts on the engine. I know that most of the bolts I've replaced have had bigger heads. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/rolleyes.gif" alt="" /> I don't even want to say that out loud.
Oh, and a limited number of tools required.

And, as I originally meant to say, that's some nice welding work. $30 is great!

Yeah, I've used a screwdriver or a drift pin or two many times on other vehicles, but there was some binding on the threads and I didn't want to screw up the holes. Also, as MarkG said - the tool is very useful for making certain the bearings/races are properly seated on installation of new ones - particularly if you don't have the other gee whiz whompin' tool to seat them with.

But maybe you know a way to get leverage on the upper A-arm nuts without taking out the steering column?? Between the steering column and the A/C compressor getting in the way, I don't know whether to punt or pass at the moment. The 1/2" drive short socket is too short, the deep socket is too long and using a short extension on the short socket is too long as well. Maybe I can try a 3/8" drive deep socket with a T-flex handle. Sure hate to start grinding down a socket. No wonder the Japanese lost WWII.