Running a plasma cutter is EASY. 5 minutes will have you wokring like a pro, whereas it takes a long while to get rellay good with a torch.

Plasma cutter:
1. Hook line from air compressor to back of plasma box.
2. Plug it in.
3. Connect ground clamp to frame, near par to be cut.
4. Hold the trigger and keep the cutting tip ~1/8" - 1/4" from the surface of the object (don't ground the tip on it).

That's it. Really. Easy as cake. It's like a pencil that slices through steel. If you want a straight cut use a piece of wood as a guide for the tip (can't use metal - would ground to item to be cut)... that's about it.

Oh, and it's "SAWZALL"... not "zawsaw". Sawzall is the trademarked name Milwaukee uses for it's reciprocating saws. But just like KLEENEX is a brand name, everyone just calls all reciprocating saws "Sawzalls". It's just that, for some reason, no one on the internet can SPELL sawzall. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif" alt="" />

Cutting the IFS off with grinders and sawzalls? Sucks to be you, but have at it. You've earned my respect for your toughness, if not for your intelligence. (When there's a plasma cutter apparently avaiable).

Not sure what you meant by the last statement but....anyway...
I don't want to use a tool that I've never use before to cut where combustable fuel is near by. My safety comes first. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/butwiggle.gif" alt="" />

On to the next part.

Nah, tn toy is right. Grab that plasma cutter. It's faster, it's safer, and it makes better cuts. Think of it as very sharp scissors for cutting metal.

Got a question...
Can I leave the engine mount bracket as is.....
http://home.earthlink.net/~audiorat1/images/SAS%20progress/nomore%20IFS2.jpg

or is the shock hoops gonna be in the way?
I'm using Marlin's.which is like ALLpro

You've got a few more things to remove. The pic above is a better approach. See how the motor mount box is all that's left of the original shock mount? A grinder is hard enough that most folks stop where you are now - instead of going the whole way and doing it right.

Oh, and box in the motor mount box when you get all that stuff off.

I'm trying to grind more stuff off and cut the rear t-bar mount too. I guess if it's worth doing, it's worth doing it right...

Why not use ford F-250 shock towers part # E5TZ*18183*A for about $30 a pair? They are alot less pricey then all pro's..
I know ford towers have less bling factor J/K <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/notooth.gif" alt="" />
Just giving you crap how much were the marlin towers?

I don't remember how much they were...I got them with the hysteer and wheel spacers. I just want to give him the business. He even delivered them himself. can't beat that...:)

BTW how are the 5.29's with 35's anyways? I am likely going the same route SFA as you soon but I am running 4.88's instead for now.

I like my 5.29 with 35's. It's actually a little lower than the factory spec. it improve my hill acceleration. I had 33's with 4.56 and I feel like I gain a lot of torque back.