I just finished installing the GM Rear disc brakes on my 4Runner, and now I am wondering what to do about the proportioning valve. I have seen most people put on a dial type adjustable valve from Wilwood, but these were on vehicles like FJ40's and such that did not come with the LSPV. My runner does have the LSPV and I am trying to figure out what I need to do with it, or to remove it, or what? I looked at Roger Brown's info on his site about his tying up the rod, but I am not sure what I should do now have the discs back there. If someone helps me out with this, I promise to do a write up of the conversion <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif" alt="" />

Chris

Are you driving it? If so how do the brakes work? That's the big test, if they work ok go with it, if not get the Wilwood.

I just bench bled the master cylinder and Ill bleed the rest of the system in the morning when I get some help.

TTT for my friend. Someone out there has to have some more info.

Keith

I take it that the brackets are awesome?

Rob, are you making them? Details, please! <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif" alt="" />

yes joe, rob makes a kit/ brackets <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/kewl.gif" alt="" />


i have the rear discs on mine..i don't have my LSPV on it( never have) and put a 10lb. residual valve on my back lines to hold some pressure back there..it will stop on a dime and put you through the windshield,but yet my pedal doesn't actually start grabbing until at the halfway point..the reason is that im still running the stock MC( 13/16" bore) and its not pushing enough fluid..Scott over at Rockstomper makes a bracket/kit with a GM MC and will bolt right in.you just need to do a little brake line work.the price is $95 +shipping but it will put your pedal back up to the very top.i haven't put one on mine yet,but it will be on its way shortly
http://www.rockstomper.com/catalog/brakes/gmtoymaster.htm

although, you can probably just make the adapter yourself.i was thinking about it,but don't know the thickness of the adapter.besides, i usually dont rig up or screw around with brakes or my steering <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/shame.gif" alt="" />

take it down a dirt road after you get everything installed and get it rolling pretty good and apply the brakes. Be really careful the first few times because the back may want to swap ends with the front.

If the back brakes lock up first you need to adjust your valve. If they don't lock up at all you need to adjust your valve. thus the desire for an adjustable valve. do you need it? not really if your willing to crawl under your truck to adjust the one you have until it's right. the reason people tie them up is because the proportioning part isn't designed for big brakes. so when you load the bed with stuff it squats the valve and applies too much rear brake because it is proportioned wrong for the size brakes you have. the only reason the installed it in the first place was so that you could have better brakes under a loaded situation. but if you set it up right on the dirt road and just tie it in place. you'll be happy with loaded or unloaded. but if your looking to haul stuff all the time then get the adjustable in cab valve and be done with and have the best of both worlds.

that gm swap kit is sweet. I just wish I had known about it before I got the fj80 master cylinder. but that's life.

anyway you will have to run the dirt road about ten or so trips to get it adjusted right. once it is right all four tires should lock up at the same time. then go out on the pavement and stomp it to the floor and see if the back tires lock up. if they do let it down just a little bit more.the last thing you want is your rear passing your front in an emergency stop situation. especially with a lifted truck with bigger tires.

I hope this help this is how I was instructed to do it and it worked great. once they were adjusted I just locked the valve in place and haven't touched it since. I do recommend the 10lb antibleed back valve or check valve. my pedal is soft the first time you push on it after driving it a while.
the check valve will stop that problem I just been to cheap to get one yet. oh yeah and lazy to boot <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif" alt="" />

the fj80 pedal works as a direct bolt on except for a little tubing bending but it still has a good bit of pedal drop before the brakes hook up. but it isn't too bad.It wans't half way that's for sure but it wasn't at the top like my original set up either. but my fj80 master with the tank was like 150 bucks once I was done so the gm kit with master cylinder is a great deal at $95. imo

The brackets are great Rob! The fit is excellent, and they bolted right up. I would recommend Rob's brackets to anyone wanting to do this mod. The rotors were machined correctly, and once we had the parts in front of us, it took less than an hour in the cold and in the dark. On a good day, it probably would have taken longer - ya know, beer breaks and pee breaks, but hey, it's a good kit. He is bleeding them right now, I'm sure he'll post up here later.

Keith

Joe, I do make a lot of stuff for toyota's, cause i got 1
am not a ligit business so I don't want to put stuff in your for sale section. afraid of getting booted,also, i do operate a laser machine and a cnc track burner for a living