It has been recomended to me by South Bay Driveshafts that before I install my one piece drive shaft I should replace my transfer case rear output bearing and seal. OK, sounds like a good idea. Now the questions. Can it be done in the truck? I've changed out a seal before but not a bearing. Does it take any special tools? How is it done? I'm not a half bad tool turner and have taken apart chain driven TC's before on a Jeep with Quadrajunk when I converted it to part time. If I can do it in the truck (which I did on the Jeep) is there more I should just go ahead and do with it apart? New sprockets, chain etc? My 5sp SR5 3.slow has 140K on the case but it's as quiet as a mouse and functions perfectly.

Thanks in advance for any help you can give me. I'd help myself with my Haynes book but they say to take the case to a dealer to get it worked on and don't even give me a blow-up diagram of the case. Piss-poor book for stuff like this.

Thanks,

Toyo Master <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/cheers.gif" alt="" />

OK...I've got to ask

Why are you wanting to install a one-piece driveshaft? Am I missing the logic here? A one-piece driveshaft (non-slip) will create excess loads on your t-case output shaft, which is why they're probably telling you to replace the bearing first (so that it might last a little longer). As well, a one-piece would send shock loads all the way through your driveline everytime you hit a bump in the road.

Am I not thinking clearly here?? It is almost midnight, and I'm tired from studying....so please give me more info <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif" alt="" />

Max

Yes it can be done in the truck. You only have to remove the extension housing. Hardest part is getting the flange off. Make sure you get a new flange nut.

MAX- Technically he means 2-piece as opposed to the 3-piece one he has now. We say 1-piece to mean without a carrier bearing.

85TrailToy is correct. I'm simply talking about elliminating the center carrier bearing and replacing my drive shaft with a single, slip joint, drive shaft. It gets rid of the expensive, vibrating, constantly failing carrier bearing on a raised truck.

Thanks 85TrailToy, that's what I wanted to hear. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif" alt="" />


Toyo Master

-Disconnect driveshaft.
-Make sure front hubs are not locked.
-Block the vehicle.
-Verify that reverse in 4 lo rotates the ouput flange clockwise because Bill can't remember. If Bill remembers wrong, use 1st.
-Tap out indent on nut with a drift so it won't interfere.
-Put 34mm socket with breaker bar and extension pipe as needed on the output nut, rest end of breaker bar on driver's side frame rail.
-Start motor and gently let out clutch.
-Poink, its loose. Work on it by hand from there.

Hmmm.....reading in an 88 Repair Manual it seems to indicate that the rear output bearing is pressed on the output shaft and that you need to split the case and remove the output shaft to have the bearing pressed off the shaft.

I'm I reading this wrong? I hope so. If that's the case I think I might just take my chances on the original bearing. I hope that's not the noise I'm hearing at 55+ MPH. I hope it's driveshaft noise as has been suggested to me by several folks.

Any info on this? Am I reading the book correctly? Anyone ACTUALLY changed their transfer case output bearing without splitting the case? I need some help here guys and gals.

Toyo Master <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif" alt="" />

TM----pressed in? Maybe but I might be able to press it out with my thumb. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif" alt="" /> It' was a long time ago when I replaced one but I just used a socket and a tap from a hammer.

Well, I just found out that the chain driven transfer case output bearing is indeed a pressed on bearing whereas the gear driven cases have a bearing held on by a split ring and they can be removed and changed with out tearing down the case. You have to split the case, remove the output shaft and use a press to pull the bearing and replace the bearing. I'll take my chances with the original bearing. It has no slop, the seal doesn't leak and there's no indication of a bearing problem.

Looking at the shop manual there looks to be too many "special" tools and precautions for me to start tearing the case apart at this time. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/butwiggle.gif" alt="" />

Toyo Master <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/cheers.gif" alt="" />

I thought you had a 4cyl. Does the output flange have up and down slop? If not I wouldn't worry about replacing the bearing.