Unirevolt-
I ended up tapping my spring pins through <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/shame.gif" alt="" />-lightly. It was'nt hard enough to do any damage to the threads though. If it seems like you'll have to REALLY drive them through, I suggest reaming out the hole (reaming bit) enough to get the pins through. If you don't own your own drill motor, (and it soundz like you don't) rather than paying someone else to do it, why not run down to your local hardware store, and pick up a rat-tail file, and ream the holes out yerself? At least that way you'll have a little more control over how much material You want to remove.
Tap the pins through, then put a little locktite on the threads and snug them down. You don't need to over-torque these as they can grenade on you, as you read previously. Also the pin is'nt really there to keep the pack together as much as it is to keep the leaves from shifting around in the pack. Tightening the U-Bolts will do that for you. Good luck Uni!! <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/coolg.gif" alt="" />

You know I thought I was the only one with the shims backwards, at least on purpose. I first put them in the proper way and still had a shutter at take off. Then tried to take them out and it helped a lot, only shuddered on heavy acceleration. But the driveline shop measured the angles and figured with shims fliped backwards I would actually be closer in-line. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif" alt="" />So I fliped it and no more shudder, to each truck its own.
I say leave them out, if it gives some shake, measure the angles and put the shims in the corosponding direction.

Scott F. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/cheers.gif" alt="" />

I would keep the clearance as tight as possible. People are already shearing the pins after lifting their trucks...... and having slack in there would probably increase the chance of that happening.

Along this thinking get yourself a "V" size drill bit. It is .377 diameter. That should let the .375 pin pass through without "punching" it but not leave a lot of slop...only 2 thousandths.

Thanks for the advice, gettin'er done tomorrow (payday) <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/kewl.gif" alt="" />

Matt

I went to go get it done today. Shop told me it was going to take some time; "them springs are pretty hard you know" <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/rolleyes.gif" alt="" /> They start to drill through the overload using a little bit of oil, make it half way through and the guy decides that he can't do it. It only took him 30 secs. to do half... I asked if they were using a carbide bit; "just a standard bit." I asked if they wanted to try using a better drill bit, said they didn't want to risk it. Said that those drill bits are $50 a pop.
I told him that I bought one from Lowes for $17. Reply - that bit would only last long enough to drill out a few holes. That's all I need done - a few holes. (sorry need to vent)

Anyway, the other local place said they could do it with a plasma cutter. Do I want them to use a plasma cutter on my springs?

I agree that less slack is better, as long as you can make the pin physically fit in the spring, but I'll speculate that the major reason for center pin breakage is loose U-bolts... and further, that the reason why many people shear pins after installing a lift is that they failed to adequately torque (and then retorque after a hundred miles) their U-bolts. FWIW, I carry spares, and have given out a few to folks who found that their U-bolts were finger tight! <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/ignore.gif" alt="" />

The center-pin should see minimal load, with the U-bolts tightened down. Consider the different dimensions of the clamped springs (approximate area between the spring plate and spring perch) and the cross section of that itty-bitty spring pin...

My advice is to leave the spring leaves undrilled, and to source a slightly smaller spring pin. Spring steel can be drilled with the right speed, pressure, and bit, but it is way easier to just swap out the pins.

Randii

Guilty <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/rolleyes.gif" alt="" />



My add a leafs were already drilled (made to?) fit the larger pin. So I'm kinda stuck there. Any comments on using a plasma cutter?

I need get this figured out tomorrow.

One other thought that justy popped to mind - asking the local h.s. vo-tech to drill them....hmmm

Any comments on using a plasma cutter?

Don't. Not a good idea.

You would be better off with a couple new bits, some oil and some extra time on your hands.

Go for it.

Good Luck,
Michael

I would like to second Randii's inference that periodically checking, and tightening your U-bolts (especially after messing about with add-a-leaves etc.) is a VERY good idea. I run fairly heavy duty U-bolts (9/16") with "Nylock" nuts, and even those, after a couple of days of wheeling (or a few days of daily-drivin') can work themselves loose. If your using the basic parts-store brand U-bolts, they can back out even faster! Save yourself the aggravation (of damaged threads and sheared spring pins, or worse!))and slide under yer rig and snug those U-bolts down. You'll be glad you did! My 2 centz- <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/cheers.gif" alt="" />

Todd/HI