well i dropped the crossmember, 2 brackets, starter and heat shield and all of the bolts holding the oil pan but i cant get it out... is it even possible, did i just do all of this for nothing?
i do have a few inches to workwith, should i try and install the new gasket without dropping it all the way, id have to be very careful and precise though
suggestions please

Bourge, I think you'll need to pry it off with a wedge of some kind... like a putty knife only stronger.

If you talking about getting the pan loose ,,,there is a proper tool a kind right angle handle to a blade that you lightly tap with a hammer. It's pictured in the Mitsu Factory manual--elswhere too.
I've never needed it except when dealind with factory RTV.

I think your talking space...
With a body lift , that sounds like it would help , and it does , but not in the most important way....READ ON FOR FUN...
On GEN 1 s you have to raise the engine 2-3 inches to get over the front Diff houseing/axles.
I haven't done it but I will be soon , when I work up the guts.
Its described in the factory Dodge/mitsu manuel ,,to my recolection you chain the hoist up take off the exhaust crossover, loosen (unbolt) the motor mounts and crank'er'up 3".
PLACE A COUPLE GOOD OAK BLOCKS like 2"x4" under the mounts for stability and let'er down lightly.

Look all this up , don't take my instruction alone.

The $17. size Chiltons my have the instructions , but everone should try to get the factory , worth the $60. bucks. The other books ---place them in the outhouse.

Best of luck , take your time, and enjoy,,,
Dave "the junk yard dog " of Sacatomato

P.S.
Oh Yeh,

Do it right if you don't want it to leak.
Drop the pan out and clean it out and up, ect.

clean all surfaces with carb cleaner on a rag. Make sure no oil is driping . let the truck set along time to drip dry(sounds like you've done that already)
I suggest you use a real gasket ---not cork--- a $13-$41 felpro permadry--depending on which store rips you the most.
Make thing very clean and dry and wipe a very thin coat of Toyota FIPG RTV.
I,ve covered this recently a couple of times , so look back over a couple weeks on OIL ,,, and I expect to be censored soon.

Carry on...
Dave

actually, service dept. at the dealer strongly suggests using the grey rtv silicone over any other gasket material. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/kewl.gif" alt="" />

Yes,
the service dept told me to use RTV only too , and I tried that and made a mess . I'm not as skilled at laying an exact bead of RTV so I started over,( I had the shortblock upside down on the pallet in my livingroom ,,the best of situations. Plus it was "dry" and clean. As I said in a privious post recently, the oilpans on these are old tin can types and at these ages have been off and beat up by varius method---so I straighten up the pan flanges like new. Without doing this they are not nice and flat and square on the flanges. ,,,WHICH DOES make a strong case for useing STRAIGHT RTV. But I like an even and equal feel to my torqing so many little bolts...and I don't get that feel with straight RTV or trust myself that much , plus I don't want to do it twice.
I'm just not that good,,,I'll stick with this newfangled Permadry Plastic/rubber FEL PRO , with a very, very ,lite coat of Good RTV. And the plastic install "bolts" that come with it sure helps keep things in place ,good and square.
Open a box up and look at what I'm'a talkin' bout.

Just personal preferance.

Dave - the junk yard dog

as you said to unbolt the engine and raise it would have been alot easier but we just returned the engine hoist that we had borrowed..so i had to drop the differential a few inches, i didnt remove it all the way but enough to safely remove and reattach the oil pan...its not that hard of work its just a real pain, i smashed my little finger and the nail is falling off <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/ignore.gif" alt="" /> that comes with the job though