While checking the timing on my new truck I heard the
rattle...damn! Starts at 1700 stops above 2300 or so.
So I pulled the valve cover to look at the guides. Sure
enough the driver side guide is gone...double damn!
I also noticed some considerable scoring of the head
where the chain has been rubbing, I'd say approximately
1/32" or less depth on the two grooves that the chain has
made...damn that can't be good for anything. The motor
has 162k miles on it and I'm guessing this is still the
original chain based on the grooves being there. The PO
probably just let it go that way. I know the LC kit is
the preferred way to go for the timing chain job, but I'm
thinking of just getting a whole new motor for a couple of
reasons. First 162k although not a lot of miles for Toyota
is still up there. Second the outside of the motor has a
lot of oil build up. I know the front seal was done by
PO, but nothing done with rear seal. I don't know yet
where the oil is coming from. Next reason is I know from
PO paperwork that this truck had some trouble getting
thru emissions test last time so may have issues there.
Lastly, I can see keeping this truck for some time so why
the hell not? <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif" alt="" /> I only put about 5k a year on a vehicle
since I'm close to work which is why the 162k didn't bother
me to begin with.
I've been looking at the engines on LC Engineering's site
but they specifically say that they won't guarantee their
engines are emissions legal. Has anyone bought one of their
EFI Pro 22RE motors (10-225E) to put on a vehicle required
to pass emissions test and if so how'd it go? Is there
anyone in the Portland Oregon area that has any experience
with any of the local engine builders? I'd probably have
someone local install whatever I get since I don't have
anything other than the most basic of hand tools.
Am I overreacting by thinking total engine replacement?
Here's your chance to talk me off the ledge. I'm a little
pissed at the moment since I paid $3500 for this rig. I
still think it was an ok deal since it has a lot of new
chassis stuff done (tires, wheels, brakes, idler arm, etc.).
Sorry this is so long. Give me your thoughts and input and
I'll go calm down now.

Regards,
Indy

Dude, skip LCE...

Go to EB! He is local to Oregon, and has a machine shop near Portland. He has some of the BEST engine kits and accessories on the market, and his prices are WAAAAAAYYYY lower than LCE.

Give Ted a call, and let him know you found him on 4x4wire! <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/kewl.gif" alt="" />

Replacing your timing chain will cost you about $60 and 5 to 10 hours of time, and you'll replace the front main(included in the $60) while doing it. It's really not that hard, so, i would definitely consider just doing that if your engine seems OK otherwise.

You might also want to replace the t-chain cover if grooves worn in it by the t-chain are too deep. (what's too deep? i don't know...mine were about 1/16", and i replaced my cover." the cover is another $50 or so. But, you might not need that.

If you do decided to just replace the chain, definitely go with EngnBldr's kit. (You should prolly talk to him if you decide on a whole new engine, too.)

Also, there are a lot of resources to help you do the job yourself. Do a search on this board for +22RE +Timing +Chain, and you'll find all kinds of great info.

4Crawler has great step-by-step instructions on his site at 4Crawler T-Chain Replacement Instructions.

There is also a good article in the Toyota Tech section of this website.

And we'll all be here to answer questions if you have any.

Regarding your oil buildup, is it fresh? Where on the engine is it (front or back or top or bottom or all over)? Do you ever leave drops on the driveway? If not, the front main may have been leaking before the PO had it changed.

I don't think that the t-chain plus oil buildup on the engine is a reason to get a new engine...unless your looking for a reason...in which case it's as good a reason as any. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/lol.gif" alt="" /> Maybe others will disagree, though. The emission thing might be more of an issue.

Stan

Take a deep breath and take care of one thing at a time <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif" alt="" />
The guys already steered you to Ted. I think the shop's name is Rocket Empire, but the url to his site is already posted here.

On the oil, clean it up and take a look around. If a head gasket concerns you, then do a leakdown test and see whatcha got.

I like Stan's idea; if you're just lookin' for an excuse to put a new mill in there, go for it, but talk to Ted and Darin first <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/kewl.gif" alt="" /> We'll getcha in trouble yet!!! <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/lol.gif" alt="" /> <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/lol.gif" alt="" />

Whew. Well I've had a couple of hours to chill and
I've got EB's web page bookmarked...I feel a little
better now. I've got the 25th-28th off, I was planning
on camping but now I guess I'll be wrenching. Good use
of vacation for me...not so good for the wife though.
I think I'll get a timing kit w/ steel backed guide and
a new cover for peace of mind. For a hundred bucks or
so that looks a lot better to me than plunking down a wad
of cash right now for a whole new motor. I spent some
time today degreasing the outside of the motor (at least
a layer or two) and will try to catch where it's coming
from. It does leave a few drips on the driveway each night
but not enough leaking to have to add oil yet.
I've got my FSM that I recently picked up on Ebay and I
saved all the write ups I've found on here about the
t-chain job. I've got a couple mechanic buddies at work
(school bus yard) that I'm going to try to talk into at
least watching over my shoulder and keeping me from
messing anything up. Thanks a million for all the support
on here too. If it weren't for sites like this on some of
us (me!) would be to chicken to try some of this stuff.
I'll make sure to keep you all posted on my progress and
if I get screwed up I know where to go for help. Thanks.

Regards,
Indy

>>>*If the chain has cut so deep it is getting into the head, replace the timing cover. (The grooves won't hurt the head.)
*Almost without fail, the grooves in the cover will crack right along the stress riser as the engine heats and cools a few cycles, and then leak coolant into the oil.
If you have access to a welder who knows aluminum, these do weld up fairly nicely, but that usually costs more than a new cover, now down to around $50-$60 from many sources....*EB

I plan on contacting your shop tomorrow EB for parts
to fix this asap. Glad to know you're local to me
too. I'll replace to cover for sure while I'm at it.
The water pump and fan clutch are both fairly recently
replaced, but is there anything else to consider while
I've got the thing torn apart? Talk to you all later.

Regards,
Indy

Indy, you'll be talking to Tod tomorrow. Thats EBs son, the fella running the machines these days. EB is heading out of town today working on some supplier contracts or similar. But no worries, Tod is a chip off the old block and knows just about everything the old boy does. Timing kit and cover is about all you'll need. May want to check the clearances on the oil pump while its off, but generally the oil pumps are lifetime parts unless run dry. Get a fresh jug of coolant and oil change materials for when you reassemble and you should be good to go.
~Darin <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/baby.gif" alt="" />

Yeah, I figured I'd check the oil pump out while I had
everything apart. I'm getting syched up to do this
job this weekend if I can get all the stuff I need by
then. I just don't want to leave it go any longer than I
have to and 2 days should be plenty of time to get it
done. I think I'll go ahead and take the oil pan
compeletely off; that may be where some of the oil leak
is coming from and if not then I'll get the chance to get
all those pieces of guide out of there anyway. I'm going
to attempt to do the job without removing the cylinder head.
That'll save at least a couple of hours of disassembly and
reassembly time. Will I need to prime the oil pump with
vasaline or will it be ok without? Thanks again for all the
help.

Regards,
Indy

Pack the oil pump regardless if you retain the old one or buy a new one. doesnt hurt anything and its cheap insurance from extended dry startup. Nothing wrong with leaving the head in place, thats how I do it. Good luck on the oil pan, they can be a biatch to drop. If ya get in a pinch just log on and scream HELP!
~Darin <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/baby.gif" alt="" />