Axe,dose your manual cover 2000 Sportages,if so do you have the tear down and rebuild procedure for the vacum hubs,also do you have access to part numbers for the seals or can you recommend good seals to replace the standard factory ones.
Any help greatly appreciated.

John

It doesn't matter how good the seals are or how often you change them, the design is seriously flawed and will not work consistantly. Best option is to ditch the vacuum hubs and buy manuals instead.

On that subject......I am about to put the manuals on my Sporty and all the instructions(???) refer to the placement of the vacuum feed items in the US model (photos not real clear on what is what). My question is what am I looking for in terms of shape/size/likely position for vacuum servo, tank, and the connector that needs to be disconnected?

If you look right behind the air filter assembly ,there should be a vacum soleniod which you will have to disconnect the power from, also down on the steering knuckles on either side of the vehicle,coming out of the top will be the vacum lines, these need to be capped hope this helps.
John

Thanks, but things are placed differently on the RHD model, brake booster and battery swapped, etc, etc. I can see the canister but not the servo switch, a description of what it looks like rather than where it is, is needed.

Yes.



The shop manual shows how to pull the bearings and the seals but does not go into detail of rebuilding the hubs themselves. They are considered a replaceable unit and simply replaced if defective.



Try http://www.kiausaparts.com

And I echo Gary's thoughts. Don't bother trying to fix the seals. Get Warn Manuals or see if your Canadian Sportage qualifies for the replacement mechanical autolockers.
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Good point. I don't know if it's in the same location on right hand drive. Follow one of the vacuum lines up from the fender. Eventually it will join with the vacuum line from the other fender. Follow that line as far as you can go. It should terminate at the vacuum soleniod/booster tank. It will look like a little storage tank. The electrical connector for the soleniod should come up from the bottom. Simply unplug it and tape it off. That's all you need to do up there in the engine compartment.

You should remove the vacuum lines in the fenderwell to the hub because they eventually crack. You can just cut them off at the strut. But make sure you plug the vacuum port on the backside of the hub. I used a screw with waterproof epoxy. The vacuum line in the fenderwell can be left open and exposed.