Oh, I know the looks. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/rolleyes.gif" alt="" /> How do you think I knew about the new transmission? Did you notice the nerf bars bolt onto the frame in the front....and a sheet metal tab in the back? <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/barf.gif" alt="" />

Since you were under there, can you help me with this? Thanks, Wayne

Just another update. I took the Klune apart to clock the shifter block. The machining on this thing is like fine art. Didn't know if I wanted to put it back together, or set it on the coffee table


I did a quick, 10 minute scrub and paint on the t-case (which really turned into 4 or 5 hours of scrubbing, sandblasting, taping, prime and paint...) to make it look a little nicer. I also got a new D44 flange from a 1st gen Rodeo to try on the t-case. As I had hoped/suspected, it fits perfectly. I swapped the dust shield on from the old yoke though since it's curved and the Zu flange was flat. I'll likely get another one for the rear output as well. Just didn't want to buy 2 of them without knowing for sure they'd fit.


Also got some new, longer, grade 5 studs and the t-case is ready to go.


The oil pan for the tranny I modified to make it deeper. Used another pan from an XJ as a doner. Cut them both up, re-weld and I get about 2.5 more quarts capacity. It kinda ended up sticking lower that I like though. I think to do it again, I'd cut one or the other piece at an angle so the back was deeper, but the front stays about the same.


The official, bolted-together length is 43.5" from bell to the end of the rear yoke.



I've got the rest of the parts I need now I think. I hope to start pulling the MUA out by this weekend....

--Dan

wohoo! I test drove the Amigo tonite finally with the new driveline in it. Nothin' like getting things done at the last minute for Moab. I've been poppin' Advil every night for the last 10 days now. My body gets very rebellious crawling around under the truck, yanking the tranny/t-case in and out several times, etc.

The new command center:



That's the Klune shifter on the left and the D300 twin sticks on either side of the Geartronic shifter. No time to mount the face plate for it or make boots for the t-case shifters.

Hooking shifting up to the Geartronic shifter is gonna take a bit more than some simple wiring. The little knob on the black box there is how I shift for now. 6 positions. 1st, 2nd, 3rd, 3rd/OD, 4th, 4th/OD, and the red button turns the OD on all the time.



Sheesh, no skids yet either <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/rolleyes.gif" alt="" /> But! I will have a nice, flat belly pan when I get it made. I'm getting the rear shaft shortened tomorrow. I ended up getting a Toyota / Spicer 1310 conversion u-joint. The Toy part of the joint will fit the Zu drive shaft yoke. The front shaft I lengthend myself again, and I'm using a Zu D44 pinion flange on the Dana 300 front output so I didn't have to do any trickery with the flanges or joints in that shaft.


--Dan

SWEAT!!!

Ideas...

Chase

Good job man, lookin' awsome. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/kewl.gif" alt="" /> <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/cheers.gif" alt="" />

Doesn't the stock Dana 300 come with a single shifter? Forgive the ignorance, what's the advanage to a twin shifter (or why is it there?)

Yep, 1 shifter is stock. These are very non-stock. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/coolg.gif" alt="" />




The twin stick allows you to select Low/N/Hi for the front and rear outputs independantly (although there is a lockout so you can't put one in Hi and the other in Low). That means you can put it in FWD, low range, pull the e-brake, hit the gas and pivot around a rear tire


--Dan

Did you ever get your shifter wired up? I'm lookin' at doin' this swap with toyota stuff. I managed to maim my tranny <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/rolleyes.gif" alt="" /> and this is gonna cost about the same as fixing mine.

Also, I was searchin' around on e-bay and the only trannys I found out of 4-runners and stuff were A30-40, are those the same as the A340F?

I've been using the rotary switch for shifting. I broke reverse in Moab and have just been getting by without it through the summer. I have worked on the circuit diagrams and board for the shifter off and on, but haven't gotten very far on it.

It's cooling off here finally and I started yanking the engine last week for my engine swap. I won't be getting back to the shifter board until after that.




Probably. My AW4 has 30-80 cast into the housing. I think the A340H Isuzu used was 30-80 as well. I'm not sure how those numbers relate to the model of tranny.

Toyota used the A340H and then A340F starting in '95. I'm not sure on the drop though. I've seen some with a driver's and a passenger side drop, but I'm not sure what came in what.

What are you planning on for a t-case? The chain-drive case on it, or a gear driven case with Marlin's adapter?

--Dan

im not sure how tranny pumps work, but if they are like engine oil pumps, would that deeper pan not pump oil as well or at all?

kevan