Not sure what you're asking. Does the deep pan keep the pump from oiling? No, it works just like the standard pan would. The pump doesn't know how deep the pan is. The oil level in the pan is still the same.

The deeper pan mainly gives a bigger resevoir of oil, and a little more surface area for cooling through the pan. The extra mass makes it swing through temp changes slower, like when climbing a long hill with the converter unlocked. To take full advantage of it though, you would need to drop the level of the pickup in the pan. That's kinda hard because the pickup *is* the filter. I may figure out a way to do it yet, but it's not real high on my worry list.

--Dan

I'm lookin' to go with the gear driven case and Marlin's adapter. Might even go with dual cases depending on when my tranny dies. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/notooth.gif" alt="" />

What kind of work am I lookin' at to make a shifter like the one you chose(I like it) work?

Actually, the shift controller just got a whole lot easier

I'm running MegaSquirt on my motor now, and will be with the 3800 when I get it in. An offshoot of this is MegaShift for controlling electronic transmissions. It looks like some are making progress on the 4L60-E.

http://www.megasquirt.info/4L60E/index.html

Now, the AW4 is a simpler implementation to control. Coming up with the circuits is what I'm still learning to do. I should be able to use the designs from this project and use them for my controller, making up a huge chunk of time in the process. Laying out a board isn't that big of a deal if you have schematics. This could possibly co-exist in the same MS hardware I'm using for the engine as well. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/kewl.gif" alt="" />

--Dan

You have to mount it and create a linkage to the shaft on the tranny. Sorry, this is kinda big:


The length of the two arms on the pivot is set so that the throw of the shifter matches the throw of the shaft in the tranny. I just did a little math to come up with the lengths, and then fine-tuned it once it was together and drilled the holes in the levers. You can see in the big, down-facing lever there is another hole drilled above the one that's being used. That was my first guess from measuring, then the 2nd one was an adjustment for more throw after I had it together.

The pivot tube has twin ball bearings inside (from roller blade wheels) so it moves very smoothly. The upper lever connects to the shifter. You can't see it all here, but there is a relay rod that connects from this lever into the front of shifter. It's about 8" long. Both of the relay rods are made from all-thread and clevises for adjustability. The holes were drilled under-sized and opened up just enough to get the bolts through, and I use nylock nuts so they stay snug.



Edit: Updated pic to show the shifter hookup.

--Dan

Coming up with your own fuel injector controller and shift controller? Programming assembly code for the Motorola chip? I'll just say you tacked an incredible amount of work and seem to be chugging through it.

When you did an engine swap and transmission swap, why didn't you get a controller that came with the stock engine. Same for the tranny shifting.

Did you *have* to come up with your own stuff, or did you choose to? And if you chose to, what advantage is there?

I'm not doubting you, I'm trying to understand why you went this route. The engine and tranny I understand (more power /beefier transmission that bolts to the engine), the controller/shifter part I don't

Thanks, Wayne

No, don't mis-understand. I didn't design the EFI controller, write any code for it or anything. MS is a DIY efi controller. It was designed by a couple guys a whole lot smarter than me. I bought the kit, soldered up the board, made up the harness for it, itegrated into the truck, tuned the maps to suite my engine/turbo, etc, but all the hard work was done by others.



It was by choice. I didn't want to mess with trying to find a complete controller and harness for it. It wouldn't be programmed for my truck, it's weight, my gearing, tire size, etc anyways. I also wanted full manual control. A stock controller wouldn't really give me anything I wanted at all.




It was purely personal preference. I really liked the idea of a torque converter and full power, clutchless shifting (especially with the turbo). I still like it. The dial shifter works ok, but it'll definitely be better when the Geartronic shifter is hooked up.

--Dan

I was thinkin' about it and I didn't totally understand what you said. Do you mean that if you leave it in D it will still shift like a normal auto? Or that you will have to shift manually. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/baby.gif" alt="" />

I shift my tranny manually. In the S60, if you leave it in 'D' it auto-shifts. If you slide it over, it will not. It is full manual.

In the Amigo, since I don't have a tranny computer, it doesn't matter if I'm in 'D' or in the +/- mode on the shifter, I still have to shift manually.

Now, if you do use the tranny computer as well, you could have that auto-shift the tranny as normal when in 'D', and then do manual-shift only in the +/- position fairly easily.

--Dan

Well this is ref. to a jeep TF999 tranny but still the same idea.Skyjacker makes deep pan w/extended pickup to keep
the auto from starving on steep climbs.It is 2 pcs of sheetmetal with a small tube welded between them that draws the fluid.......check it out for ideas.

Good looking swap <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/kewl.gif" alt="" />

Bansil

Well, I found what broke reverse in my tranny. I pulled it all out this weekend to swap in the replacement and found this in the oil pan:


This is 1 of 2 oil transfer tubes between the valve body and the body of the trans. They're just pressed in, but not real tight. They're made to pop in and out to remove the valve body from the tranny. It looks like I blew one out that was used for reverse. These point down, so the loud "pop" I heard when it happened was probably the tube hitting the bottom of the pan.

To prevent it from happening again, I made up a simple retainer using a threaded hole already in the tranny, and a small piece of 1/8" strap.


The un-retained end seats about an inch deep and it's not coming out unless the retained end does. I'm not entirely sure why this happened though. It's possible it was user error.

When in reverse, the solenoids are normally in the 1st gear position. When this happened, I was cruising down a sand road in 2nd and stopped to do a quick backup and stomped on it without making sure to shift back to 1st gear again. The manual doesn't say one way or the other if you can do this, but I've done it before just to see and all seemed well. I'm guessing that because I stomped on it in reverse, something may have over-pressurized somewhere and popped the tube out.

It may be that the tube popping out prevented more severe damage. I just don't know though, so I'm putting in the retainer and the new shifter will ensure the solenoids are in 1st gear when going into reverse.

--Dan