Nitteberg, Myself and Cousin Dougie have been bantying this about with the Aussie guys for a while now, over on Frank's Outer Limits board. A couple of concerns came up:

• if there is no idler bushing to absorb impact, which component of the steering will take the abuse instead?
• Wouldn't you need an opposite hand drive box? ie here in North America, woudn't we need a RH drive steering box?
• What about lubrication? Would it still need a source of power steering fluid for lubrication? If so how do you plumb it?

Maybe I'm making this more complicated than it has to be, and I really think this is a worthwhile mod. The idler arm is the weak link in our front ends, for sure, but on the other hand the idler bushings are a lot cheaper than say...the relay rod/center link...

I also have an exra steering box, so if it would work successfully... <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif" alt="" /> <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif" alt="" />

Phil,

The genII idler arm doesnt have any give at all. So I dont think that is a concern.

Great idea! But I'll need a doner LHD box if that's the case. I've many RHDs on my side.

How would you get some of those RHD steering boxes to the USA ??? Maybe if some of us over here could get together and share the shipping...
How much $$$ are you asking for a used box?

Junk Yard Dog

Thats a good mod for a Gen 1 Nitteberg.
A Gen 2 has a much beefier idler arm and only needs a shaft made out of stronger material say 4140 this can be done very cheaply a grease nipple can be installed as well.
I also believe a hi-steer conversion will stop a lot of this idler arm bending as well.
This would involve mounting the outer tie rods on top of the knuckle instead of from underneath.
My friend is getting a tapered drill bit made up to match the ball joint taper. He has some special welding rods for the cast knuckle material so the hole is welded solid then redrilled from the top with the tapered drill bit.
There are also super heavy duty aftermarket tie rods available.
Gen 2 formula for super beefy front end :-
- machined idler arm shaft (4140)
- hi-steer conversion
- aftermarket heavy duty tie rods (optional)
- custom made heavy duty drag link (optional)
- steering damper (optional)
My Gen 2 has the chassis mounting bracket for a steering damper but nothing on the drag link so a clamp could be used or a bracket welded to the drag link.

The drive box is not opposite, just mount the idler arm 180 degres wrong on the aksel. I used a box without power steering, a little smaller. I hope it work with outers, it's hard to get.
Lubrication: it's shaved off, kept the adjustment, made blinding plates, filled with grase and sealed.

I'm going on som driving today to test it, but I also have play in my power steering. Have on spare, change it later.
Have also thougt about flipping the tierod, but dont't have the tools.

Since the car was without power steering, it's has a factory steering damper instead, two braket's/ears. Is it possible to use a larger ordinary shock horisontal??

<img src="/forums/images/graemlins/cheers.gif" alt="" />

Lemme check and I'll get back to you, JYD. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/kewl.gif" alt="" />

Test went fine, much better than the old one.

I don't know if this makes any difference, but the pitman arm stud is on a swivel joint like the tie rods and ball joints where the idler stud just turns on a straight axis. Perhaps that would absorb the shock?


Like Nitteberg said, just mount the pitman (now idler) arm 180?.


That's half of the reason I asked if it would make any sense to connect-up the P/S lines to the "idler box". The other half of the reason I ask this is wouldn't having two fully-operational P/S gearboxes make power steering a LOT easier?

Hey Nitt, I haven't actually gone out to my rig to check clearence, but what is it on your rig that's getting in the way that made you shave the gearbox in half?

KISS

Keep it simple stupid. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif" alt="" /> <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif" alt="" />

I dont think two powered steering boxes would do you much good. If they dont turn at exactly the same rate, and your going to have trouble pulling that off, then they will bind and fight each other. If you wanted more steering power the next step would be to find out where to drill the stock steering box for a hydro assist ram, but I dont know if our steering setup could take the extra force.