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I don't know if this makes any difference, but the pitman arm stud is on a swivel joint like the tie rods and ball joints where the idler stud just turns on a straight axis. Perhaps that would absorb the shock?


I have no doubt Nittenbergs setup works very well.. and congragulate him on this "in the box thinking" smile

Doug does point out a little know design feature.. that is one steering component typicly controls the linkage in rotation (along the axis of the steering gear).

The reason this can be important is the if all your pivot points are not lined up (the balls on the inner tie rods. idler arm steering box) as you rotate the relay rod (the big link through the center) you will get a toe change.

By putting one pivot in the front that keeps the linkage oriented properly this is reduced.

I have not taken the Montero arm apart but other Mitsubshi designs are typicly done with a rubber bushing in the joint (along with the pivot).

Again... not huge problem, but it is something you should at least be aware of. It gets more import if you tweak the relay rod or if as you rotate the rod you get a toe change.

My old plymouth Arrow (Mits design) had this problem, all the joints checked out fine (seemingly) but it still wandered. Putting a new arm in fixed it since.

People know that this fixed the problem, but were not realy sure why.

Kevin


87 Turbo Intercooled Raider, roller cam, torsen rear diff, LSD front diff, lockup auto with modified converter, V6 brakes, low transfer case gears...