Randii,
Great question. I actually checked that first, long before test-driving. It's part of what I asked the nephew if he checked because there are some bizzare models out there that have very high insurance rates.....and some that are very low. You're right, it completely slipped my mind when I posted.

I'm in Arkansas now and don't have my figures, but here's what I ran into for mid-level insurance (100/300/100 if I remember right):
ò Liberty: Cheapest insurance. About $125/year cheaper than Rodeo
ò Rodeo: Middle.
ò XTerra: About $75/year more than rodeo.

...all in all, not a huge difference, but it adds up. If everyone goes out and runs their numbers and says: Wayne's Wrong! Remember:
1. I'm in Arkansas (i.e. not at home) and pulling #'s out of my head.
2. Insurance will vary by both where you live, and what company you go with. A pickup truck on a Mexican Border town using your neighbor, Smiling Sam's Insurance Company, will be different than a pickup truck in rural North Dakota with "Mutual of the Rock Solid Farmers of the State." (Financially stable Mutual of Omaha, Famers, State Farm, etc)

But if you do run the numbers, please post them--using all 2004 vehicles, and list your area and limits. Progressive has the easiest on-line form (no talking to an insurance salesman!), but I found USAA gave me the best rates, and they didn't make me purchase gap insurance.

NOTE: Gap insurance covers what you owe on the loan vs the market value of the vehicle when you drive it off the lot. Most people are trading in cars that they owe more on than the book value (Debt Loss 1), then buying a new car that depreciates when they drive it off the lot (Debt Loss 2). Insurance companies were getting stung, so they came up with Gap Insruance as requirement. Once you pay the loan below the book value of the vehicle plus pay off the loss on your old loan, you can drop the gap insurance. Just like house insurance, however, you have to ASK to drop it or they will keep collecting as long as you own the car loan.