Has anyone tried cranking up their fuel delivery on their 223T injection pump?
Anyone know how to do it?

Jesse
Connecticut

I wonder if some folks aren't mixing fuel pump advance with fuel delivery increase.

the only external adjustment on the Diesel Kikki (aka Robert bosch) injection pump is the injection pump timing.

Jerry LeMond's diesel timing technique is the best thing I have seen for that.

robt

Robt, my n/a 223 has a fuel increase screw at the back end of it, along with turning the pump for timing. Although I am not certain exactly how this increases fuel, I know that turning it does make a difference. So now I'm curious: does the turbo 223 NOT have this screw?


PS: This is the same screw my 3 diesel Jettas had, probably because the pumps were very similar.

Hi zackery the screw you are talking about is the fuel load control and it is very sensitive ,and it normally needs to be set on an inj pump test mach, 1/8 turn from the fact setting will result in extreme smoke one direction and the other a loss of power, and robt was correct in that dsl kiki and isuzu sealed all the adjustments so that you couldn,t change them too easy,, what i have done in the past to adjust one that has been miss adjusted is warm up the eng make sure ign timing is right and the adjust idle speed up to about 1500 rpm loosen the lock nut and very slowly turn the screw clockwise untill the eng starts to die down in rpm and then start to turn the screw back the opposite way untill the spd comes back up to about 1800 and lock it there if it hasn,t been turned too far from the orignal setting you can get it pretty close , i have one here rite now that was turned in about 3 full turns and it smokes like a freight train , the screw just pushes against a small lever inside the pump that controls the pump cam position which is what pushes on the disttributor pressure piston which in turn produces the pressure and the vol, and it can be damaged by too much twisting , i am about ready to pull this pump and send it out to be recalibrated , too much time messing with it , you can tell the pump guys how much increase in fuel del, you want in percentages and they can set it dead on, but then the increase usually means a little more power and less fuel mileage , because the customer tends to use the pwr more , Jerry oh if you want a quick and easy upgrade so that it will advance the timing quicker, here is an easy one , on the side of the pump there is a timing advance mechanisim, it is called a cold start advancer , but has nothing to do with temp , it is pressure operated, look down on the side of the pump and you will see a large round , looking nut with about a 10 -12 mm hex rite in the center, unscrew this cap and take out the large holding spring and any shim if any , and then screw the cap back on , dont pinch the oring and the timing will advance much smoother and quicker as you go up thru the gears and it will eliminaate any of the low speed, mid range eng lay down in 1st and 2 nd gear, over all runs much better

They were similar because they are the Robert Bosch design. Diesel Kikki in Japan is/was a Robert Bosch licensee.

I am not aware of a screw on back. I will look for it. There is an access port for the micrometer to set fuel timing by adjusting to .050 stroke as I recall.

What size/type is this screw? does it have a set screw?

Jerry, I would suppose if one were to try this adjustment as you described, the most you would ever consider turning this screw in this procedure would be about 1/2 turn?

robt

HEY ROBERT BEEN A WHILE , A 1/2 TURN EITHER DIRECTION WOULD BE PROBABLY BE TOO MUCH, THAT THING IS VERY SENSITIVE , LOOK ON THE BACK OF THE PUMP THERE IS A SMALL SCREW (BOLT) WITH A SCREWDRIVER SLOT IN IT AND A JAM NUT , 12 MM , THE SCREW STICKS STRAIGHT BACK TOWARD THE FIREWALL, IT IS BELOW WHERE THE FUEL FEED LINE GOES ON AND IS KINDA HARD TO GET TO BUT YOU CAN, I ALLMOST FORGOT YOU CAN ALLMOST STAND UP UNDER YOURS , WHEN YOU START TO ADJUST THE SCREW MARK IT SO YOU HAVE A REFERENCE POINT TO GET BACK TO , AND TURN IT SLOW , YOU DID REMOVE THE ADVANCER SPRING ALL READY RIGHT .. JERRY

Hi guys.
You have me wondering....does my NA 223 have this advancer spring, and if so, can I remove it too? (11:30 pm and no lights in the garage.... <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/ignore.gif" alt="" />)
How much difference does it make? Any increase of bottom-end torque would be nice... <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/sleeping.gif" alt="" />

JLEMOND, I have fooled with this screw a bit on my truck, as someone already had it way out of whack, probably trying to keep the smoke down, which was caused by the plugged-SOLID air filter. You would think it would be easier to buy a $12 filter, but no. The best setting I found (probably not right, but it works) it to find the spot where the truck will smoke enough to see it in the mirror when full throttle at 3000 rpm. I have a small convex mirror on my side mirror so I can see the exhaust pipe. My goal was to give it as much fuel as it could cleanly burn under most local driving conditions. At this setting it starts to smoke pretty heavy at anything over 3000 rpm. I rarely rev it over that, as it doesn't make much difference anyway. I have tried turning it up more and it caused lots of smoke, with little increased power, and lots of annoyed looks.

smoke should be more related to "loading" of the engine.
not necessarily rpm related.

kind of like turbo boost not coming into play until loaded.

you can rev the engine all day long in neutral and the turbo won't produce boost, and you shouldn't really smoke much.

Now accellerate going up hill, and it should be smoking all through the power rpm band, not just at 3,000 rpm. In fact, at higher rpm, and the torque demands decreasing with speed, there ought to be less smoke.

on a flat surface or going down hill, it might not smoke at all.

Advance makes a big difference in power and smoke too. These are smoky dirty engines when set 'correctly' pretty old tech. but very reliable.