After buying a chopsaw and borrowing my brother's MIG, I finally started building the bumper for my '86 'Runner. Here we go...



I started with the brackets. These are 3in channel (.250 thick) cut at an angle to go into the frame, then drilled and tapped for 1/2"-13 bolts (probably will add nuts) and adorned with 0.250 plate for the drop down.





After much measuring and cutting, I tacked up the main structure. This is 2x4 box tubing, 1/8" thick. I decided against a bulletproof 3/16" tubing based on weight. Did I make the right decision? Here it is fully welded and bolted on the truck:





Clearance between the tailgate and the outriggers is 1/2". The next step is to cut pieces to run forward to just behind the tires (for side/corner body protection) and add a hitch receiver. I plan to run the receiver through the bumper like Shawn did here. I don't plan on towing anything particulary heavy. What do you think would be the limit on towing with this? I would like to tow a sandrail on a trailer or perhaps a pair of jetskis. Ideas for reinforcement if neccessary?

Thanks for your advice! <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/cheers.gif" alt="" />

Bandit, looking really awesome <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/kewl.gif" alt="" />!! Your design is the EXACT same idea I am considering for my '85. Do you currently have a body lift on that Runner? If so, how much? Would you consider building another for some $$? Staceman

Having a bumper tucked up nice and tight like that looks good, but for real world use, it should stick outfrom behind the rig a little more. So in case you back in to something that you cant see, it will take the impact, not the tail gate. This is especially true for the 4Runner, as the tailgate sticks out a little farther, and also houses the glass, regulator, switches, etc.$$$. This is not a good idea just for trail vehicles, but also for ones that see daily driver duty (think yellow painted, concrete filled steel tube barriers). I would hate to go through the trouble of completely fabbing a rear bumper, only to have my tailgate impact before the bumper did <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/frown.gif" alt="" />.

Staceman - Thanks man! My 'runner doesn't have a bodylift (just a 4" suspension), although I eventually plan on doing a 2" BL to accomodate 35s. When I do, I'll have to refab the brackets to bring the bumper up again. I really enjoyed building the bumper and if I have time between school I could build another for $s. I have a lot of money into materials though, especially with the price of steel going up so much. Guestimating I've probably got about $140 into it: $50 for the 2x4, $20 for channel, $20 for the receiver, $20 for plate, $25 in hardware (Grade 8). As for time, what you see above was done over a weekend.

Lou - I absolutely agree that the bumper must be functional. I measured everything out and this bumper sticks out about 1/2" further than the black "Toyota" strip on the tailgate, which puts it at least an inch from everything else. If I back into a pole, the plastic would probably break, but if I was rearended there aren't too many cars that would come as high as my bumper anyway. I have been rearended once (the reason for building a new bumper) and the guy's car basically went right under the truck and hit the leafs/diff-housing; NO BODY DAMAGE except the bottom of the bumper was krinkled. This bumper sticks out further than the stock one did. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/rolleyes.gif" alt="" />

I got rearended by a guy going 40 (I was stopped). Folded his hood in half. You could not even tell my truck had been hit except for a couple of paint chips on my hitch.


Luckily neither myself or my truck was damaged because the guy drove off.

I've got the same bumper, good to know it can take the hit. I backed into a light post one night. Didn't see it because the light was out and the post was painted black. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/rolleyes.gif" alt="" /> Bent that post clear over, only got two scratches on my bumper. Yea for steel tubing <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/kewl.gif" alt="" />

Bandit,,,,not to rag on you,,,,,but if those pieces in the top picture are going on you truck,,,,,you need to turn up the heat when your welding,cold welds will fail much faster than a good hot weld...just going buy the color around the weld,,,,and with the tappers on there, I am not sure if that was going on your truck...only saying this if you plan on towing things.... <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/ignore.gif" alt="" />

madsquirel - No offense taken. I am new to welding, so I wouldn't be surprised if I didn't get it quite right. I used a Hobart Handler (135) on its highest voltage setting (#4) and a wire speed of 40. Both the channel and the plate are .250 and the welder is only designed to do 3/16. Should I try making some passes over the existing welds or am I back to square one?

I'll try to get some pictures of the bumper welds tomorrow. They look a lot better since I got better as I went along. I really appreciate your honest opinion on these; safety first! <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/cheers.gif" alt="" />

Here are some closeups of the welds on the brackets. They don't look too pretty (these were my first welds and I'm new to welding), but I'm not sure what to look for in terms of a strong weld. On the tops I welded then ground them back down to the level of the plate (for fitment). Again this was on the highest heat setting of my welder and a wire speed of 40.

Are these strong enough to tow anything? If not, can I do something to strengthen them? Maybe a second pass? <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif" alt="" />

HERE ARE THE WELDS ON THE BUMPER SIDE <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif" alt="" />