the driver's side door limiter - it keeps the door from flying open all the way to the fender -- is broken, i.e. the welds that hold the pillar-side bracket are history (the door side part is fine) So, now what? If i can get to the inside pillar through the wheel well (?), i suppose I can drill, tap and install bolts. BUT afraid there won't be enough clearance for the bolt heads for door to close (assume that's why they are welded in the first place.
Anybody else deal with this? please

Well it's the weekend and folks are wheelin or wrenchin'
I'll say this,not sure how to fix this,but I'm sure someone will have a way.....
I might think of using a couple of web strap retainers similiar to what Jeeps have used for years....this is
just a response and is probably not the best way to fix your problem but some thing to think about....
Welcome to the wire.
Doug

I second the idea about the strap. It works well, but you may want to use something a bit heavier since our doors a a tad bit heavier than a jeep. Im pretty sure it wont be too hard to fabricate a way for that to work.

Dan

The answer is easy and free. weld the doors shut "Dukes of Hazard" style <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/cheers.gif" alt="" /> OK go to your local fire dept. ask for a piece of surplus/failed/old/retired, 5" supply hose. Cut into 2" wide strips and as long as you want. And mount them with self tapping sheet metal screws. Remember to use washers and pre drill the hose, I would even reinforce the hole in the hose with an epoxy or G

LMAO...I just repaired my drivers door this weekend. I don't have pictures of the before and in process but I can take one of the finished piece. Didn't know it was going to be needed by someone else. Anyway I'll try to explain what I did.

Mine actually broke several years ago. It was the spot welds that left go. So I drilled where the welds were and riveted it back together. This worked for a while until the thing pulled through the sheet metal. I guess drilling the holes weekened it. So now I had this big hole in there. I wanted something heavy duty so I made a backing plat out of 1/4" thick stainless. Then I made a "faceplate out of 1/16" thick stainless. Cut a rectangular hole in this to allow the "limiter anchor" to be welded from behind. I filed out the torn hole to be nice and square so the limiter is almost in the same position as stock. Then I drilled for 1/4" bolt top and bottom in new faceplate and door jamb and tapped my backing plate. To hold the backing plate in place while I fastened this "sandwhich" together I drilled a small hole in the center of tapping plate and hammered a finishing nail in. While holding the nail I put the top of backing plate into hole, moved it up as far as it would go, tilted bottom of plate in and down into position. Then while holding onto nail I slid the nail through the center of the limiter. Then I bolted it up with loctite Twisted nail out, attached the strap and done!!. Works great and yes there is room for the bolt heads. Hope this was followable and helpful.

thanks RodeoXS, this seems like the best bet...if i can do it, and if i'm sure exactly what you did.

Thanks also to the jeep web-strap ideas from Basil,hunterdan and awd; but this won't give me the limiter's built-in door hold that keeps it open when you want.

RodeoXS, if you could post that PHOTO, it would probably help me a lot in figuring this out.
Access on this 92trooper seems VERY limited. i could only fish the 'anchor' part out through an access hole (taped over) on the inside left. i tried from under the wheel well splach guard, not possible, and i don't want to take off the fender to find out that there's no access there either, which i suspect.

Anyway, the part of your explanation i'm real hazy about is where you mention:

""Cut a rectangular hole in this to allow the "limiter anchor" to be welded from behind.""

The rest of the step-by-step seems to say you bolted all the stuff in there, which i suspect i could do, after studying your step-by-step while looking at the door area.

Your idea about the special heavy-duty plates seems good, but wondering -- think i could tap and bolt the original 'anchor' as mine is whole?

Thanks again. This is the first-hand type of solution i was hoping for.