I'm replacing the auto with a W-56 manual tranny on my 4runner <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/kewl.gif" alt="" />. Right now, I'm ready to pull the auto, but my Haynes manual tells me that I need to disconnect the torque converter from the flywheel BEFORE I pull it. I quess that makes sense because of the torque converter's weight, it may be easier on me for it to come off with the tranny.

I know most of you guys have stick shifts, but anyone with experience pulling an auto give me some tips please!

BTW, I've never done any of this type of work before <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif" alt="" />. I'm taking my time and learning as I go <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/shiner.gif" alt="" />.

You need to remove the lower inspection cover from the front of the bell to access the rear of the flexplate. Turn the engine over with socket on the harmonic balancer nut etc and remove the several small bolts holding the converter to the flexplate. Using a screwdriver give the converter a push to get it to clear the plate. It will move about an 1/8" and your clear to go.

I did the 5spd swap on a newer 4runner with the v6 so it might be diffrent. I pulled the tranny leaving the tc bolted to the flywheel. much easier.

Hey Runningman!
I'm about to do the exact same swap on my '86. Could you please keep us updated with any problems/solutions you find or tips you can offer? I'd really appreciate it. I havn't done any drivetrain work myself so I can use all the info you offer. What kind of clutch are you going with? I found a Centerforce kit for $150 delivered, so I'm gonna go with that.

Thanks bro, Brian.

I got a 22re and W56 tranny out of an 86 pu with 70k miles. The clutch looks brand new, so the only things I'll do is install a new throwout bearing and get the flywheel turned. When I pull the auto, I may replace the pilot bearing and rear main seal depending on what I find.

I'm glad the 4runner is not my daily driver. I've spent a couple of hours on it each day this week and it's been slow going.

The two bolts that connect the top of the bellhousing to the block are a real pia and have taken the most time to get out. I put a jack under the tranny crossmember and disconnected it. That allowed me to lower the tranny/engine enough to make those bolts accessible from underneath. Even then, I had to use a very long extension and swivel attachment on my wrench.

The only other thing I've noticed is the rediculous amount of crap attached to the tranny. Double and triple check that you have everything disconnected before you pull it.

I hope to finally pull the auto today after work, I'll let you know how it goes.

Cool man,
thanks for the tips so far. Keep em coming.
Appreciate it, Brian.

The way I've done mine is as follows (it helps when you have a 1" or higher body lift):
unbolt the motor mounts from the frame
lift engine up slightly
remove engine mount dampeners
lower engine back down so mount brackets are resting on the frame.

This will give you some additional space to get a socket/wrench/whatever in there to loosen the bolts up.
With my 1" BL, I was actually able to climb onto the engine bay and loosen those bolts without use of extentions.
My hands were alittle scraped up, but I got them out.
Hope this helps,
Todd

JEEZ,
its tempting to just drill some hole in the tranny hump. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif" alt="" />
BTW, I'm gonna go pick up my parts tomorrow! Yipee!
B.

Oh yea, did you guys have to do any driveshaft swaps/mod? I'm going from a automatic-turbo tranny & transfet to a W56 and transfer, so I'm thinking there might be a difference in length. We'll see...

Haven't touched it for the last couple of days, been busy with other things. I was going to pull the auto myself yesterday, but it's big, heavy and awkward to handle so I'll have a friend help me on Sunday.

I don't think there will be a problem with the rear driveshaft, it's the front I'm not sure about.

If you leave the torque converter attached to the flex plate, you will dump a ton of ATF on the floor when you disconnect the tranny from the engine.

Pull the thin metal inspection cover from the bottom of the bellhousing. Then look for bolts or nuts on the front, not back of the flexplate. All autos I ever did had the bolts sticking thru the flexplate, so they had to be removed from the front, not the back. There will be 4 or 5 of them. Remove the bolts/nuts and then use a large screwdriver to force the converter back away from the flexplate. Now you can remove the tranny and leave the converter in place.