Good tip, thanks. Do you lose much ATF when you unbolt the converter and take it out as one piece? Gotta mind the driveway ya'know. B.

Nope, you will not lose a drop as long as the converter stays fully back on the tranny input shaft. Don't worry, it woun't fall off unless you tilt the tranny way down in front.

Some convertors have drain plugs. Those you can drain and leave on the flexplate with no mess.

The tranny will piss fluid out the back end after you remove the output shaft, so drain the tranny pan before you start. Draining the pan will not drain the convertor, tho.

Also....jack the truck way up both front and back. Support it safely.

Place a floor jack under the rear of the engine to support it as the tranny comes out. The motor will want to fall down in the back and might damage your fan or shroud in front, or wires and other stuff between the valve cover and firewall if you don't support it as you remove the tranny.

Roger that, I've done everything you've said except for forcing the torque converter off of the flexplate. Thanks for the input.

I pulled mine this morning (also have an auto tran). Used 22" of 3/8 extensions, swivel and socket. Guide socket in with one hand from under and around frame and work ratchet with other. Driver side easy - passenger side tight in getting hand up to guide in socket but not bad.

Hey guys!
Any progress this weekend?

I got all my big parts together yesterday, and I'm all fired up and ready to start the swap.

How are yours coming along?

Brian.

The auto came right out, definitely easier to do with a couple of people.

The flexplate bolts were on pretty tight, it was fun getting those off.

You'll need to purchase a new pilot bearing to tap into the end of the crankshaft. Use a socket that's the same diameter of the outer race and tap it in slowly and evenly.

You should install a new throwout bearing too, very easy to do.

Installing the flywheel, clutch disk, and pressure plate was easy, I used medium, blue loctite on all of the bolts. Make sure to use a clutch alignment tool.

The actual install of the tranny wasn't bad. We got it to slide on easy except for about a half inch off the block. Seems that the very end of the input shaft had a hard time seating into the pilot bearing. We started to thread it in with a bolt, then it it just popped the rest of the way in.

We spent all day yesterday on it, but we took our time along with an hour long lunch break.

BTW Fred, I'm eating the other half of your sandwich today <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/nana.gif" alt="" />.

One other thing, I have all of the necessary parts except for a W-56 TRANNY MOUNT. If anyone on this board has one please get in touch with me!

Last night, I installed the clutch hardline off a 2wd truck. A little tricky to manuever, but not hard at all. Even the firewall brakeline mounts had an extra point for the clutch line.

I also installed a new Aisin slave cylinder. Easy.

First problem, I went to connect the speedometer cable to the back of the t-case and the connections are different. Looks like I'll have to guess how fast I'm going until I can obtain the proper cable.

Today, I'll be drilling out the openings for the clutch master cylinder and prepping the clutch/brake pedal assembly for install.

I did obtain a tranny mount and it should be on its way.

I plan on posting some pics when the 4runner is operational.

Cool man,
Good to see its coming along. Too bad about the speedo cable, let me know what you figure out, cause I'll have that problem too.

Today I was up under the dash and saw it is all there except for the clutch pedal itself. The whole bracket is already up there waiting for the pedal! Very good news.

I have the clutch parts inbound, got the flywheel back from the shop, and hope to get some small stuff done this weekend. Then the tranny next.

Thanks for all the info guys,
Brian.

I'll try to find one at a boneyard, until then I just have to quess. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/coolg.gif" alt="" />



You can try to use the auto pedal bracket, but it doesn't have the studs for the clutch master cyl. to bolt on to. You'll need to get a bunch of small parts just to get the clutch pedal to work correctly. Your best bet is to locate a complete pedal assembly off a donor vehicle if you can.

I made the holes in the firewall for the clutch master cyl. last night. I found it easier to pull the dash and drill from the inside using the existing pedal bracket for a template. I was going to use a 1-1/4" holesaw for the center hole, but there was not enough room. I ended up using the largest drill bit I had and finished it with my dremel. It's a pia, take your time to get it right.

Things left to do,

1. Install pedal assembly and clutch master cyl.

2. Bleed clutch line

3. Install new bushing/seat for shifter

4. Modify floorboard for shifters

5. Modify/connect wiring

Sounds simple enough, but I'm sure there's a few more things on that list <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif" alt="" />

"BTW Fred, I'm eating the other half of your sandwich today"

That's just great! You know, I think it might be a crime to take advantage of elderly people with short term memory loss. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/shame.gif" alt="" /> Oh well, you did pay for it after all.

Don't slow down--you need to have it ready for the campout. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/cheers.gif" alt="" />