Well, I figure about 2 qts too much. It pushed it out through the tube that comes out into the top of the airbox. Oil was sucked in through the AFM and TB and intake plenum. I stripped the threads when I pulled the plug. Half of the aluminum threads came with it. I bought a kit and took my time boring it out by hand, with grease on the bit to catch the filings. I then rethreaded it and cleaned it out and ran a magnet into the threads and cylinder to catch anything and then used my shop vac with some vacuum hose to suck out anything in the cylinder.

Ouch!

You must have ingested emulsified oil and tried to compress it. That could bend a valve and/or partially shear spark plug threads to the point they come out when you remove the plug.

Excess oil in the sump will be whipped into froth by the crank. It looks like foamy eggnog. The foam grows in volume quickly and will fill the voids and eventually get sucked into your intake system. Unlike air, that thick foam will not compress.

You are lucky if that is all that was damaged. Usually, valves get bent and rods also.

While Im not Engnbldr...I have been known to share a bottle and break bread with him. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif" alt="" />

My thoughts on the burning of the #6 exhuast valve are that the crossover pipe for the exhuast has something to do with it. Might be a scavanging problem allowing the backside of the valve to stay hot. Just a theory...but thats about the only thing I can think of that makes #6 unique.

~Darin <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/baby.gif" alt="" />

Yep, I agree that it's probably heat related. Either the head doesn't contain sufficient water flow at that point or there is additional heat load in that area.

Exhaust valves are lucky to survive at all considering what they go thru.

If I have one head redone, should I have them both? Just wondering how much crap I'll have to pull off this crowded motor. Also, the piston should come up flush to the top of the block which would mean the connecting rods are ok, right?

If you have work done on one head...best to have them both pulled. That way if there is any need to deck the bad one, the other can be done as well. Plus it will allow them both to be checked out for other possible problems. Would totally bite to get her all back together only to have a different problem a few months down the road. But then again...thats just my opinion. If Im going to take the time to do something....I like to do it right the first time. Too friggin expensive half- <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/butwiggle.gif" alt="" /> it.

On the pistons coming up flush with the block....dont know about the V6s, but on the 22R-E Lazer blocks, the pistons actually come up above the block deck ever so slightly...not quite as high as the head gasket top surface. Thats one reason why they make alot of noise as the rod bearing starts to let go...tight clearances.

~Darin <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/baby.gif" alt="" />

Alright, guess I'll go pull the heads and see what they look like.

Anybody have any hints to make this easier? I've gotten three of the bolts off the driver's side and they're a PITA. I called the dealer and they want $1667 to pull them and reinstall them after the fact so back I go to wrenching...

Passenger side valve cover removed, should there be this much oil there?

Yes that's normal. While you are in there turn your engine using the lower pulley and check your valve clearences if you have a bent valve it will be way off compared to the rest of them. I would check your # 6 valve clearences the inatke should be between .007-.011 and the exhaust should be between .009-.013 if it's way off likely that valve is toast.