I have a 96 rodeo, and the passenger side front drive axle has the c/v boot torn on the outboard side by the wheel. looking through my haynes, it appears you have to remove the entire front differential assembly just to pull an axle out? is this the case? looks like the mounting bracket for the differential is actually pressed on to the axles, thus the reason to remove the whole thing.

You can avoid pulling the whole assembly by following the steps in THIS article. Of course, to change the outer boot you will have to remove the inner one as well...... but that is a small price to pay considering the alternative. If you are looking for boots, I would recommend THESE and would also highly recommend getting THIS as well. It makes things a lot easier. HTH <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/patriot.gif" alt="" />

Thanks for the info! Ill read it now, but cant you just get a rebuilt axle already built up and swap them out to save time and hassle.

are rebuilt ones readily available for rodeos?

I guess I didn't understand your original post. Are you needing to replace a torn boot, or are you needing to replace an entire axle? Just because a boot is torn doesn't necessarily mean the axle is toast...... yet. Though driving around with a torn boot will let all kinds of nasty stuff in, which will ultimately cause the death of the CV when 4WD is used. But if the boot is torn, and you haven't been using 4WD, you might be ok just thoroughly cleaning the CV and putting new grease and a new boot on it.

ok, i read the article and I think I see why you cant change the axle as an assembly with this method, because i assume the green part, or the outer Cup thingy would have to come out also.

great idea, but im having problems seeing how to do the outer boot, as that is the one thats ripped on mine. He pulled the inner and swapped the boot by lowering the spindle to give him room, so why couldnt you just pull the rotor and hub and then swap the outer boot without even having to pull the inner boot?

no, your right, i do have a torn boot and the c/v joint is probably fine. Im not familiar with this type of job and just figured to swap the axle out would be easier than cleaning and tearing down the c/v joints.

but to swap the axle, the whole differential would have to be dropped as i think the bracket has to be pressed onto the half shaft.

anyway, see my earlier post above about would it be possible to change the outer boot without having to disaemble the inner?

Nothing is pressed on to anything. The inner axles are retained by c-clips, bearings and seals to the brackets. General order goes Inner Cup->Bracket->Seal>C-clip->Bearing->Clip.

You also cannot disassemble the outer CV joint.

You need to split the inner joint, remove the circlip and pull the inner joint apart. This will allow you to pull the half shaft. Now you can replace the outer boot, put a new boot on the inner joint and reassemble.

Of course, it is a good bit of work. Read read read. Dan's article is a good place to start.

Michael

So there is no way possible to slip a new boot over just the outer? That doesnt seem to make sense. So if, for example, the outer c/v joint went bad, you would have to replace the axle because you say you cant disassemble the outer joint?

They should make a boot that splits and can be wrapped around the joint and then sealed up, thus eliminating the need to pull everything apart just to slide a boot over the end.

Well, I guess my search for an easy way out isnt going to happen?

I have automatic hubs, so my c/v joints spin all the time, even when not in 4 wheel drive, which I never use anyway, so If I continue to drive it like this, what are the symptoms of the joint going bad? lots of grinding noises I assume?

By the way, this truck is for sale if anybody interested. i live in GA.

Yep, it's a unit. But, for that matter, if the inner C/V went bad, you'd replace the whole axle too. You might be able to slip the inner of a new one into the outer cup of the existing one, but due to wear etc, they *should* be kept together. But you *could* mix-n-match if they're the same type of joint.



They do, and they generally suck. They're good for a temporary and/or trail fix, but they don't last as well as 1-piece boots. They're not much quicker to put on either.




With auto hubs, your CV's are *not* turning all the time unless you put it in 4wd, let them lock, then don't ever back up again in 2wd. They will unlock in 2wd normally, unless they need servicing.


--Dan

They do, and they generally suck. They're good for a temporary and/or trail fix, but they don't last as well as 1-piece boots. They're not much quicker to put on either.


Where can I get one of these at? I think if I pull the front wheel there is probably enough room to change the outer boot, isnt there? Might be a pain, but its pretty open for the most part in that area.




With auto hubs, your CV's are *not* turning all the time unless you put it in 4wd, let them lock, then don't ever back up again in 2wd. They will unlock in 2wd normally, unless they need servicing.

I think your correct on some vehicles, but not the rodeo. I dont know if I would even consider them auto locking hubs because they are engaged all the time to the rotor to the best of my knowledge. Theres an article in the tech section about changing the boots and he says they do turn all the time, and from looking at mine, they do turn all the time...


--Dan [/quote]