Where can I get one of these at?

Autozone may have them, or a store that is similar. But, you are fighting this too much. Just replace both boots. It is a messy and greasy job and if one boot is gone, the other one is probably not too far behind.

Besides, it is almost impossible to remove the axle from the knuckle, unless you unbolt the whole darn mess. By then, you might as well just replace both boots. This is not a "pop off the wheel and replace" kind of thing. It is more involved and without enough room, you will not be able to do it correctl (this includes getting everything cleaned up and the bands on properly.

Contact www.independent4x.com and see about their boot kits. I have not used it yet, but from what I can tell they are a great thing.

I think your correct on some vehicles, but not the rodeo.

What do you see in the center of your front hub? Is it a lower profile, hat-shaped piece held on by 6 bolts? Or is it the large hub that says AUTO in the middle?

Michael

Oh you can..... but it involves disassembling the hub, breaking the upper and lower ball joints loose, removing the brake pad and rotor, and pulling the spindle. Then you need to use the pop cone and boots on the independent4x site, and properly reset your wheel bearing preload when putting everything back together. So the long and short of it is that the method described in Dan's article I provided a link to earlier is the easiest way. Well, I guess the split boots would be the 'easiest' way.... but definitely not the route I would take. Good luck <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/cheers.gif" alt="" />

That doesnt sound harder than the method in the link you provided? Removeing the brakes, rotor, hub etc...seems easier and more accessible than the other side. What is the "pop cone" needed for? Someone said you cant disassemble the outer joint, so how do you slide the boot over it? Is that what the "pop" thing is for? Setting wheel bearing preload is easy enough, ive done that before when changing brake pads.

Ill probably just drive it as is for now, as its a second vehicle and not used much, but I would like to get the 4 wheel drive to at least engage. im wroking that now, trying to test the vacuum switching solenoids and shift motor, but not having much luck there either. Dam 4 wheel drives are a lot of extra work when they break.

I have the hat looking thing with the 6 bolts to answer the question asked above, so I think my hubs are constantly engaged to the axles. Is that correct?

I know, replace both boots would be the best route, but I have a lot going on right now, so a quick fix might be better for me. Would it be possible to do the split boot ont he outer and have it hold up reasonably well? How does the boot stay together if its split? Doers it just have tie wraps around it or what holds it together?

thanks

I guess that is going to come to a matter of opinion.




See HERE. The pop cone, used with the special boots, allows the boot to be stretched over the CV.



Yes. If you want to do it this way, I would be more than happy to sell you my pop cone for a good price.



Then that is not an auto hub, it is a hub flange.




With hub flanges, yes, that is correct.

and properly reset your wheel bearing preload when putting everything back together.

Sean, you smokin' <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/butwiggle.gif" alt="" /> Must be something special in the water over there in Il. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif" alt="" />

The wheel bearings do not have to be touched, since once the upper and lower BJ's are disconnected, then you just remove the entire hub/spindle assembly.

Michael

The web site for the special "pop cone" tool describes it as this:

THESE BOOTS UTILIZE AN INCREDIBLY COOL INSTALLATION PROCEEDURE, WHICH ALLOWS YOU TO INSTALL INNER BOOTS W/ OUT DISASSEMBLING THE OUTER CV JOINT....

Do they mean you can slide the inner boot in from the outer end also, eliminating the need to disasemble the outer joint, but someone here said you could not disassemble the outer joint even if you wanted to?

Well, since you have used the pop tool, how well did it work? And is it true it wont work with regular boots, requiring me to order the boots "special" boots from the same place?

Sorry about all the questions, and I appreciate your patience, just wanting to educate myself on this and explore all options before deciding what to do.

IL???...... now who's smoking something <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/pfft.gif" alt="" />

When I did all four boots on my truck, I was putting on new ball joints and repacking the wheel bearings at the same time.......... so I had all of that stuff torn down at the time. Guess I didn't think about whether it would be required or not.

The special boots have to be used with the pop cone because they have to strecth a ton to fit over the large end of the cone. I couldn't believe they would stretch that much without tearing, but they did. A normal boot would not stretch like that though.

The pop cone method was ok, but IMHO nothing that special. In the future I intend to do the work as described in Dan's article. Again, JMHO. No need to apologize, this is the place to learn and most people are more than willing to help <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/kewl.gif" alt="" />

thanks. i guess ill sit on it for now. Ill probably print out the directions on the link and try that.

You never said how the split boots stay on?

I could be wrong, but I think the split CV boots have some little hose clamp-type things and some glue to hold them together. I used them once on an 81 Audi, and ripped them off within a month and did it the right way. There was grease everywhere, and the glue didn't work for S**T!

so if i decide to try it like the article says, and change both boots(having to pull the inner to get the outer on and off) , are the local auto parts store boots decent enough quality, keeping in mind my hubs spin all the time, but I dont use 4wd much at all?